Machine was provided by WeCreat but all opinions are my own.

We know that I’ve reviewed a lot of amazing lasers (see below to access my Laser Comparison Chart!), but today I have a type of laser I haven’t reviewed before and I’m excited to share it with you.

This is the new WeCreat Lumos, a portable 3W infrared / 10W diode laser that can engrave and cut a wide variety of materials. This is the first laser I’ve tested and reviewed that would be small enough to tote to a craft market or other event to do on-site projects!

In today’s post, we’re going to go over the basics of the WeCreat Lumos, including some of the specs, important safety features, and the materials it can engrave and cut. I’ll also give you my overall pros and cons and who might be the ideal user for this machine.

Let’s dive in to this WeCreat Lumos review!

Watch the Video of my WeCreat Lumos Review

Watch my full review video about the WeCreat Lumos! If you prefer to read, continue on below this video!

What is the WeCreat Lumos?

The WeCreat Lumos features a powerful 3W infrared (IR) laser—an upgrade from the 2W IR lasers found in most competing models. Paired with a 10W blue diode laser, this laser offers fast, high-precision engraving and cutting on a wide range of materials.

With its compact footprint and small working area, this laser is ideal for small-scale projects like coasters, keychains, jewelry, leather patches, and more. Designed with portability in mind, it’s lightweight and easy to carry—making it a great choice for craft markets, maker events, or on-the-go production. It’s also ideal for crafters with limited space who want to get into laser crafting. Not to mention, it’s a pretty purple color!

There is also an additional rotary tool and extension module for making projects like tumblers and mugs. I don’t have these accessories so I can’t speak to them, but they should expand the capabilities of your machine if you choose to get them.

Overall it’s very easy to use and good for both beginners and small businesses, as you’ll see!

Machine Cost

The WeCreat Lumos retails for $2399. But you can save a lot during the launch period of June 20, 2025 – July 22, 2025!

During the launch period, deposit $50 and unlock up to $2000 in savings and exclusive perks! Plus, your deposit is 100% refundable!

• Up to $2,000 off the list price
• Free magnetic protective cone (limited to 500 units)
• Free 12-month Premium Membership ($96 value)

If you miss the launch period, don’t worry! WeCreat has a lot of good sales on their products running all the time—you should still pay less than list price!

What is a Diode Laser vs. an Infrared Laser?

The WeCreat Lumos is a dual-laser engraver, meaning it has two types of lasers in one—a 3W infrared laser and a 10W diode laser.

For the purposes of this comparison, to put it simply, the color of the laser is the biggest difference here. A diode laser is blue while the infrared laser is is on the infrared spectrum. WeCreat denotes these as the “blue laser” and the “red laser.”

Because a diode laser is blue, it will not process clear, most blue, or most transparent colors of acrylic—the laser passes right through, no matter the wattage. You can read more in my post How to Cut Acrylic with a Diode Laser. But a diode laser is great at processing more natural materials, like wood, leather, slate, etc.

Then there is the infrared lasers. A CO2 infrared laser is in the wavelength that can process acrylic—that’s not this machine. The infrared laser in the WeCreat Lumos is in the wavelength to engrave metal, not process acrylic. So in addition to all of the natural materials I mentioned above, you’ll also be able to engrave metal, something that’s not possible with a CO2 laser.

If you are looking to process a wide variety of acrylic, definitely look at a CO2 machine. But if you’re more interested in processing wood, leather, slate, and metal (engraving only) in your laser, the WeCreat Lumos could be an excellent option for you!

How the Laser Beam is Processed

I wasn’t really sure what to call this section, but if you’ve used another type of laser in the past, you’ll know that the laser module itself runs along rails to move it in position above your material while processing.

This laser, however, uses a fixed laser to process your materials. Think of it more like a spotlight, shining down on your project.

The only place I noticed this was when I cut a material toward the outside of the material processing area. Because the laser is being created at the center of the lens, the laser actually leaves the laser module at a slight angle. This means that the edges of your cuts may not be completely straight (perpendicular to the material), as you can see here:

It’s not something that would stop me from purchasing this laser, but it may affect how 3D projects or puzzle-type projects are assembled. I have it on my list to do some testing in this particular area, so stay tuned.

Engraving, however, does not seem to be affected by the fixed laser, at least it didn’t seem to in my tests, as you’ll see below.

The fixed laser also means it’s REALLY fast because it doesn’t need the time to move along the rails.

What’s in the Box?

The box is packed well, and it was easy to unbox by myself. Here’s what you’ll find inside:

• WeCreat Lumos machine
• Power cord
• USB cord
• USB adapter (turns the USB-A to USB-C)
• Vent pipe with clamp ring
• Screwdriver + hex wrench
• Two base plates (one for engraving and one for cutting)
• Pack of 3mm basswood for test projects

If you have purchased accessories with your WeCreat Lumos, you may have other parts not listed above.

Size and Dimensions

The WeCreat Lumos is much smaller and more portable than any of my other lasers. In fact, they expect you to move it around—it has a handle right on the top! The whole thing only weighs about 15.5lbs, making it very easy to move around compared to other lasers.

The machine comes almost entirely pre-assembled, which is great. I removed some tape pieces and added the exhaust tube to the back using a few screws. It probably took me a total of 20 minutes to set up.

The actual dimensions of the machine are:

• Machine dimensions: 9.5″ wide x 10.6″ deep x 12.3″ tall
• Machine weight: 15.5 lbs (about 25 lbs in the box)
• Working area: 4.56″ x 4.56″

You will need another 8″ or so of space behind the machine for the exhaust pipe. And add another 4.5″ to the height for when the safety enclosure is raised.

Safety

One of the number one things I look for in lasers right now is safety, and while this laser doesn’t have a ton of safety features, I am comfortable using it in my craft room.

• It’s classified as a Class 1 Laser Product, meaning it is considered a safe laser under normal working conditions.
• It’s fully enclosed with an eye-friendly safety cover. You do not need to wear special glasses to watch your project being created. That being said, there are ways to process larger projects while the safety enclosure is raised. In those conditions, you will need laser-safe eyewear.
• There is a flame detection system that will shut the machine down if a fire is detected.

Note that this machine will not turn off if you open the safety enclosure. This means you need to be extra careful around children and other people who might want to try and open the laser while it is processing.

I also always have a fire extinguisher and fire blanket, just in case. You can read more about everything I have on hand when I’m using my laser in my post Must-Have Laser Supplies.

Venting

All lasers need to be vented. The scoring, engraving, and cutting processes create fumes and smoke and debris and you’ll need to vent your laser so all of that doesn’t end up in your craft room and lungs.

The WeCreat Lumos has a regular vent pipe that attaches with a pipe clamp. These are a bit difficult for me to use compared to some of the other vent designs on competitor machines, but I was able to clamp it to the back of my machine with a little elbow grease.

Then to actually vent the machine, there are two options:

• Venting out of a window: you can run the vent pipe out of a window, making sure to seal up the window with an old blanket or piece of cardboard so the smoke doesn’t work its way back inside.
• Venting into a personal filter: if you don’t have access to a window, you’ll need an air filter. You can get the WeCreat AirGuard Ultra Fume Extractor, or you can connect your machine to another brand pr filter if you have one. Note that the vent pipe for this machine is 3″ wide and you will need a compatible air filter to make it work.

What Materials can the WeCreat Lumos Process?

So what can you make with the WeCreat Lumos? Lots of projects with up to 800 different materials!

Diode Cutting:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, and more)
• Leather
• MDF
• Felt
• Paper
• Some dark opaque acrylic

Diode Engraving:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, bamboo, and more)
• Leather
• MDF
• Coated stainless steel, painted metal, plated metal
• Ceramic
• Natural materials like shale, slate, jade, brick, and marble
• Some dark opaque acrylic

Infrared Engraving:

• Uncoated metal (gold, silver, copper, platinum, stainless steel, and more)

This means you can make all sorts of projects, including keychains, jewelry, coasters, small home decor pieces, ornaments, wine glass charms, magnets, leather patches, felt flowers, place cards, and more.

And if you have the rotary tool and extension module, you can engrave even more, including tumblers, baseball bats, rolling pins, mugs, and more!

What Software Works with the WeCreat Lumos?

You can use either WeCreat Make It or Light Burn with your Lumos. I use WeCreat Make It, so that’s all I’m familiar with. But lots of more seasoned laser users use Light Burn and it’s nice that the Lumos can be used with an outside software.

Setting up my WeCreat Lumos was pretty easy within WeCreat Make It. You’ll need a USB cord for the first connection, and the machine does come with one. After that first connection, I had no trouble getting it to connect to my WiFi. That being said, I did have times where the machine disconnected from my WiFi and I had to restart it. This may be due to the fact I received a pre-production module or that sometimes my own internet connection can be a little dicey.

Special Features

Here are a few things I really liked about this machine that I think you’ll like too.

Dynamic Framing

One of my favorite features of this machine is the framing option. Other lasers have framing and I use it all the time, but the framing on the WeCreat Lumos is…dynamic. I’m not sure there’s a better word for it. When you engage the framing before you actually make your project, a bright blue laser line will appear right where your image will be processed. This allows you to move either your image in WeCreat Make It or your actual material so that the image is processing in the exact place you want it.

That means that I was able to get my projects perfectly centered every time. Five stars to this feature!

Positioning Pieces

Also included are two positioning pieces. These basically allow you to create a jig anywhere on the base plate using the two screws included with the positioning pieces.

So let’s say you have 30 identical keychains you want to make. Instead of having to line up the image on each one, you can place one or two of the positioning pieces on the base plate. Then abut your keychain to the positioning piece in the same place every time. This way, you can just hit “process” again and again, speeding up your making time!

Two Ways to Focus

The machine has two ways to focus the laser beam on your material to make sure you are measuring your material height correctly (this is so your engraving will be the most clear). You can click the autofocus button in the software and the camera will estimate the height of your material.

Or, you can use the manual height dial on the back of the machine. You just twist the dial until the red dot and the blue dot line up. It’s not often that I say I like a manual adjustment more than an automatic adjustment, but in this case, I preferred the dial. It was just faster and kind of fun to make sure the two dots matched up. Very tactile. I think for the most part, I’d use the manual focus over the autofocus every time.

WeCreat Lumos Project Results!

I grabbed a bunch of different materials to see just how well the WeCreat Lumos worked. I decided to use a single wildflower laser image on a variety of materials so I could compare the quality for each project. I put my material settings below for each material (engraving: power / speed / line density / dotting duration and cutting: power / speed / passes).

If you are finding that your design feels pixelated, try increasing your line density. If you want a slightly deeper engrave, try increasing your dotting density.

Spoiler alert: I was not disappointed in any of my finished projects!

3mm Basswood

I started with the 3mm basswood that came with the machine. For this project, I used both the cutting and engraving functions to make this…coaster? Really I was just looking to see how well it did and overall I am really impressed. The only thing I would note here is that the cut line is not completely straight around the edge, because of the angle at which the laser beam hits the material, as I mentioned above.

• Blue diode laser
• Engrave settings: 100 / 158 / 100 / 400
• Cut settings: 100 / 158 / 1
• Time: about 5 minutes

Laser-Safe Faux Leather Patches

I got these great faux leather patches from Heat Transfer Warehouse and I was so impressed with how well the engraved. They do have a black center and it made the contrast between the leather and the engraved area really stand out.

• Blue diode laser
• Engrave settings: 78 / 435 / 100 / 500
• Time: about 2 minutes

This would be a great custom project to have at a craft market—have a few different designs that can be customized with a name along with a bunch of hats, and affix the patch to them after engraving! Instant hat bar.

Slate Coasters

I love engraving slate coasters and the WeCreat made it so fast. The results looked fantastic.

• Blue diode laser
• Engrave settings: 78 / 305 / 100 / 500
• Time: about 5 minutes

Cherry Keychains

Tried a different wood and engraved a cherry keychain. This is another one I think could do really well at a craft fair!

• Blue diode laser
• Engrave settings: 78 / 305 / 100 / 500
• Time: about 40 seconds

Uncoated Metal Necklace Blank

I actually have a few lasers that have IR modules, but overall I haven’t done much with them. That’s because, honestly, I’m just not that into making jewelry. But I decided to see how a metal blank would engrave and I think the results are good. It’s not the same as if you were using stamps into warm metal or anything like that, but overall the engraving is really pretty and I was surprised how much detail I was able to get in a small 1″ blank.

• Red infrared laser
• Engrave settings: NEED SETTINGS
• Time: about 30 seconds

I think I could get an even smoother engraving by increasing the line density, but I only had the single blank!

WeCreat Lumos Pros

For my first time using a laser like this, I was pretty impressed and I can definitely see myself pulling out this laser for small engraving projects vs. using one of my (many) larger lasers. Here are the things I liked:

• Nearly fully assembled and easy to set up
• It’s like a cute little purple and orange robot friend
• Numerous safety features
• Small and portable. It would be perfect for markets or for crafters with limited space
• Easy (and fun) to focus using the dial
• Very fast processing for both the diode and IR lasers
• Very detailed engraving for professional results
• Wide variety of materials, including uncoated metal
• Make even more projects with the rotary tool and extension module

WeCreat Lumos Cons

There were a few things that I didn’t love, but none of these are make or break for me.

• Can’t cut some acrylic colors, including clear, blue, and transparent acrylics. This is true of all diode lasers, not just this machine.
• Some connection issues—had to re-connect occasionally (which, thankfully, doesn’t take very long).
• Small processing area. If you want to make big stuff, this is not the machine to do it.
• You might see an angle to your cuts, especially toward the outside of the processing area.
• I would like a little beep when it’s done processing. Every other laser I have is like “Hey, your project is done!” but there is nothing to indicate the processing has finished with this machine.
• I also wish there was a lens cap warning. Did I try and use the laser while the lens cap was still on? Yes I did. Did it make my craft room smell like melting plastic? Yes it did. Was this completely user error? Yes. But I think it could’ve been avoided if the machine could give me a warning that says “Hey you! Your lens cap is still on!” (Note: if you accidentally do this too, make sure to clean your lens really well from the residue left by the melting lens cap.)

Is the WeCreat Lumos Worth It?

I really like this little laser. Is it for everyone? Nope. But I can definitely see myself batching products for my shop (in particular engraved keychains and earrings). I think the WeCreat Lumos could be a lot of fun at a craft fair because it’s so portable and it processes so quickly. It’s also so easy to move and store, so it could be a great option for those crafters who want to get into laser crafting but who don’t have a lot of space.

I hope you enjoyed this WeCreat Lumos review! If you have any questions about this laser or any of the lasers I have reviewed (or if you have a laser you want me to review in the future!), please leave them down in the comments and I’ll be happy to answer them for you!

The post WeCreat Lumos Review & Guide for Beginners appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

Machine was provided by xTool but all opinions are my own.

I’ve done a lot of laser reviews on my blog, but almost all of them have been diode lasers. I get constant questions about what sort of laser can cut clear acrylic, because a diode laser cannot.

The answer? A CO2 laser. The laser beam itself is a different color than a diode laser (infrared vs. blue) which allows it to cut acrylic colors that a diode laser cannot.

I’ve had a Glowforge Pro CO2 laser for nearly five years and I’ve used it to cut a lot of acrylic—and I do really like it. But I’ve been wanting to review the xTool P2S because I knew it had more features and capabilities than the Glowforge and I’ve had quite a few folks ask me to review it.

So I reached out to xTool, who I’ve worked with a lot in the past, and they were kind enough to send me the new xTool P2S. This is a slight upgrade over their P2 machine, so the majority of this review will function for both machines.

In today’s post, we’re going to go over the basics of the xTool PS2, including some of the specs, important safety features, and the materials it can cut. I’ll also give you my overall pros and cons and who might be the ideal user for this machine.

Let’s dive in to this xTool P2S review!

Video My xTool P2S Review

Watch my full review video about the xTool P2S! If you prefer to read, continue on below this video!

What is the xTool P2S?

The xTool P2S is a 55W CO2 laser crafting machine. You can cut, score, and engrave using the xTool P2S to make all sorts of projects, like signs, jewelry, art, tumblers, party decorations, home decor objects, and more!

Machine Cost

The xTool P2/P2S comes in a few configurations:

• P2 in white – $4999
• P2S in white or gray – $5499

xTool is one of those companies that often has sales, so you should be able to find the machine you want for a bit less during one of their many sales. At the writing of this post, both machines are on sale for $3,999. They do offer financing.

What is a Diode Laser vs. a CO2 Laser?

The xTool P2S is a CO2 laser (the same type of laser as the Glowforge Pro), vs. something machines like the xTool M1 Ultra, the WeCreat Vista, and the Glowforge Aura. Let’s talk a bit about the difference.

A CO2 laser is a more powerful and versatile option compared to a diode laser, making it ideal for serious crafters, small business owners, and those who want to cut and engrave a wider range of materials. While it requires more maintenance and may have a shorter lifespan than a diode laser, the trade-off is significantly higher power and cutting capabilities.

CO2 lasers typically range from 40W to 300W, whereas diode lasers are generally between 5W and 20W, though my xTool S1 is a 40W diode laser. This extra power allows CO2 lasers to cut through thicker materials much faster and with cleaner edges.

And like I said, if you want to work with certain acrylic, a CO2 laser is the way to go—unlike diode lasers, which struggle with clear and light-colored acrylic, a CO2 laser can cut and engrave acrylic in any color.

What’s in the Box?

The box is packed really well and you are definitely going to need a second person (maybe a third) to set up your P2/P2S. It weighs 100 lbs once unpacked and it’s quite large (we’ll get to the size and dimensions below).

Here’s what you’ll find inside:

• xTool P2/P2S machine
• Power cable
• USB-C cable
• USB key (the laser will not run without this, so don’t lose it!)
• Vent pipe and vent pipe connector
• Antifreeze
• Funnel
• Four material clamps
• Various tools you’ll need
• Three sheets of 3mm basswood
• Two sheets of transparent acrylic
• Quick start guide & safety instructions

If you have purchased accessories with your xTool, you may have other parts not listed above. I do have some other accessories for this laser, but I’ll be sharing those in an upcoming post. I wanted this post to show you what you get with the most basic package. You will note that my laser is set up on the riser base—this is a separate purchase but the machine was heavy and I only wanted to set it up once!

Set Up

The xTool P2S is my largest laser. The machine comes almost entirely pre-assembled, which is great. I assembled the riser base (again, a separate part, not included), and then my husband and I got the P2S out of the box and set on the riser base. There are an array of screws and pieces of tape to remove. The Quick Start Guide will walk you through everything.

There was one step that did make me nervous, and that was adding the antifreeze. There was no step like this when setting up my Glowforge, and it involved a bit of math to figure out the combination of antifreeze and water to add to your machine. But once I figured it out, it wasn’t difficult. You will need to remove the back panel off your machine (so make sure you can access it somehow! My laser is on a rolling tool chest) and pour in the antifreeze and water.

Size and Dimensions

The actual dimensions of the machine are:

• Machine dimensions: 39.4″ x 25.1″ x 10.6″ (about 16.5″ tall with the riser base)
• Machine weight: 100 lbs
• Material processing area: 23.6″ x 12″

You will need another 8″ or so of space behind the machine for the exhaust pipe. And you do need at least 20″ of vertical space to account for the lid being opened.

You can also see the size is significantly larger than the Glowforge Pro, especially when on the riser base.

The Anatomy of the xTool P2S

Let’s take a look at the different parts of the machine, so you can be familiar with the machine when you go to use it.

Laser Tube: The laser tube is behind a panel in the back of the machine. It generates the infrared laser beam that powers cutting and engraving.

Laser Module: The laser module is the carriage that runs back and forth in your machine, and it houses the laser.

Mirrors and Lenses: There are mirrors and lenses within the laser module that you will need to occasionally clean for optimum performance.

Laser Bed: The area where you’ll put your projects. In the bed there are removable and reconfigurable slats. You’ll place (most) materials on these slats. The slats allow for airflow around your projects, particularly when cutting. This reduces the chance of flareups.

Cameras: There are two cameras in the laser, which will take a photo of your material so you can accurately place your images.

Air Assist System: Inside the machine is also an air assist system. This blows a steady stream of air over the material, reducing scorching and improving cut quality.

Digital Interface: There is a small digital screen on the laser that shows a readout of temperature and other important data.

Lid: The lid of the machine opens 90° to make it easy to put your materials in the bed of the laser. It has a tinted window, so you can look directly at you projects as they are being processed.

Vent Pipe: Off the back of the machine is the vent pipe. This removes all of the dust and debris from the machine. See the venting section below.

Side connectors: On the left side of the machine, there is a USB-C and Ethernet port. This is how you will connect your machine to your computer for the first time.

Back connectors: On the back of the machine are ports for adding the USB key, the USB dongle if you are using the AP2 filter, the power cord, and more.

Safety

One of the number one things I look for in lasers right now is safety, and the xTool P2S is packed with safety features.

To start, it’s classified as a Class 1 Laser Product, meaning it is considered a safe laser under normal conditions. Here are a few ways that xTool has added safety to the P2S:

• It’s fully enclosed with a tinted lid. You do not need to wear special glasses to watch your project being created.
• You need a USB “key” to operate it. This is a small USB dongle that plugs into the back of the laser. If the key is not plugged in, the laser won’t work. Great if you have curious kids! Just put the key in a safe place and they won’t have access to the laser.
• There is an AI fire detection system that will shut the machine down if a fire is detected.
• The lid locks, so you can’t open it during processing. This is the only laser I own with this feature.
• There’s an emergency button you can hit in case of a problem. I do wish this button was more toward the front of the machine. I don’t love the idea of leaning over a laser that’s having a problem to hit that button.

All of these features make me more comfortable using a laser in our home. I also always have a fire extinguisher and fire blanket, just in case. You can read more about everything I have on hand when I’m using my laser in my post Must-Have Laser Supplies.

Venting

All lasers need to be vented. The laser create fumes and smoke and debris, and you’ll need to vent your laser so all of that doesn’t end up in your craft room and lungs.

There are two options:

• Venting out of a window: you can run the vent pipe out of a window, making sure to seal up the window with an old blanket or piece of cardboard so the smoke doesn’t work its way back inside.
• Venting into a personal filter: if you don’t have access to a window, you can use a personal filter. I HIGHLY recommend the xTool AP2 filter. I didn’t realize you could be in love with a laser filter, but I truly love it. I have a full review on my YouTube channel. This is what I’m using with my xTool P2S.

What can the xTool P2S Cut and Engrave?

So what can you make with the xTool P2S? Lots of projects with lots of materials!

The xTool P2S cuts:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, and more)
• Plywood
• Leather
• MDF
• Felt
• Paper
• All colors of acrylic

The xTool P2S engraves:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, bamboo, and more)
• Plywood
• Leather
• MDF
• Coated metal
• Glass
• Ceramic
• Natural materials like shale, slate, jade, brick, and marble
• Acrylic

This means you can make all sorts of projects, including signs, jewelry, coasters, paper projects, party decorations, dinnerware, home decor projects, games, and more!

What Software Works with the xTool P2S?

You can use either xTool Creative Space or Light Burn with your xTool P2S. I use xTool Creative Space, so that’s all I’m familiar with. But lots of more seasoned laser users use Light Burn and it’s nice that the P2S can be used with an outside software.

Setting up my P2S was very easy within xTool Creative Space. I did need a USB cord for the first connection, and the machine does come with one (remember the USB port is on the left side of the machine. It took me a while to find!). After that first connection, I had no trouble getting it to connect to my WiFi.

In future tutorials, I’ll show you how to make all sorts of projects using this machine!

xTool P2S Pros

The xTool P2S has a lot to like. Here are my pros for this laser:

• Nearly fully assembled and easy to set up
• Numerous safety features, including the fire detection system and locking lid
• Large bed to process big projects
• Better slat system than other xTool lasers
• Can cut all colors of acrylic
• It’s fast and powerful
• Plenty of accessories to help you make the most of your machine (like the riser base and rotary tool)

xTool P2S Cons

There is very little I don’t like about this laser.

• Emergency button is difficult to access on the back of the machine
• It’s very heavy

Is the xTool P2S Worth It?

Absolutely! If you’re looking at getting a CO2 laser, I highly recommend the P2S. It’s well-built, fast, and does everything it claims it can do. Being able to cut clear and other acrylic is a huge advantage over a diode laser. And having the extra add-ons make it very versatile as well. I am very happy with this laser and use it all the time for my small side hustle Chapter & Craft.

I hope you enjoyed this xTool P2S review! If you have any questions about this laser or any of the lasers I mentioned in this post, please leave them down in the comments and I’ll be happy to answer them for you!

The post xTool P2S Review & Guide for Beginners appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

Earlier this year, I reviewed the WeCreat Vision laser. While I think overall it’s a good laser, especially for beginners, there were just a couple things I didn’t love about it. So when WeCreat reached out to review their newest laser, the WeCreat Vista, I definitely wanted to try it out.

In today’s post, I’m going to give you an overview of the WeCreat Vista, including some of the specs, important safety features, and the materials it can cut. I’ll also give you my overall pros and cons and who might be the ideal user for this machine. And we’ll touch on how it compares to the WeCreat Vision.

Let’s dive in to this WeCreat Vista review!

Watch the Video

Want to get a video overview this new machine? Just hit play below! Or keep reading for a written overview.

What is the WeCreat Vista Laser?

The WeCreat Vista is a diode laser crafting machine, the second machine from WeCreat. You can cut, score, and engrave using the Vista to make all sorts of projects, like tumblers, signs, jewelry, art, party decorations, home decor objects, and more.

This is a lower wattage laser than the WeCreat Vision laser. Compared to 20W/40W of the Vision, the Vista is a 10W laser. This means that it doesn’t have as much power or speed, but 10W is still a good laser for the at-home crafter market and although it’s a bit slower, it was still easily able to cut and engrave the materials I tested.

One thing that makes the WeCreat Vista unique is the rotating laser head. Because you can flip it to process sideways, you do not need a riser base for doing projects like most tumblers. We’ll talk more about this unique feature here in a bit.

The WeCreat is designed to be beginner friendly so if you’re new to the laser crafting world, this is definitely a laser you should add to your list to research.

Machine Cost

The basic 10W WeCreat Vista retails for $1,399.99, however WeCreat products often go on sale! So definitely wait until a common sales time (Black Friday, Memorial Day, etc.) to buy.

There is also a rotary kit increases the number of projects you can make with your laser, including tumblers, mugs, ornaments, rings, baseballs, and more. I have an issue with the rotary tool, which I’ll talk about in a bit.

What is a Diode Laser vs. a CO2 Laser?

The WeCreat Vista is a blue light diode laser vs. a CO2 laser. What’s the difference?

A diode is a less expensive laser than the CO2, making it perfect for everyday crafters who don’t have a larger budget. It’s also more durable than a CO2 laser and has a longer lifespan. They are also generally smaller than CO2 lasers, making it easier for hobbyists to fit one in their craft space.

While it lasts longer and costs less, diode lasers are most often less powerful than CO2 lasers. Diode lasers are generally 5W to 40W, whereas CO2 lasers are 40W to 300W.

The biggest difference is, however, the color of the laser. A diode laser is blue while a CO2 laser is is on the infrared spectrum. Because a diode laser is blue, it will not cut clear, most blue, or other transparent colors of acrylic—the laser passes right through, no matter the wattage. A CO2 laser, however, can cut any color of acrylic. I know this is a big sticking point for many of my readers, so if you want to do the lighter colors of acrylic, you’ll probably want to invest in a CO2 laser. A diode laser like the WeCreat Vista is better for cutting organic materials, like wood and leather, as well as darker opaque acrylic. Read more in my post How to Cut Acrylic with a Diode Laser.

The WeCreat Vista Laser Modules

There are two swappable laser modules for the WeCreat Vista—the 10W module I mentioned above, as well as a 2W IR laser, which is designed to engrave on metal and plastic (not cut). The 2W is an additional purchase at $599, but if you want to make jewelry or other projects where you need to engrave more deeply on materials that don’t work as well with a diode laser, it’s probably a good addition.

The “Flip” Laser Module

Both the 10W module and the 2W IR module are “flippable.” This means that you can actually rotate the laser head 90° so that instead of pointing down, it’s pointing toward the back of the machine. This makes it possible to engrave things like tumblers from the side instead of the top…which also means that for many projects, you don’t need a riser! It’s very easy to flip as well—just unscrew the large screws on the side, flip, and re-screw the screws.

With every other laser I have that I can use to engrave tumblers, I have to use a riser. This is generally an extra cost and one of the reasons people liked the WeCreat Vision (it had an auto-lifting feature vs. the riser).

There may be some projects where you still want to lift up the laser, like full wraps on projects with a handle or bigger wood boxes, etc. For that, the Vista comes with a set of small peg risers. They simply screw into the bottom of the laser frame. Remove the crumb tray and place it on the table and you can engrave even larger projects.

What’s in the Box?

The Visa box is packed really well, but still use caution when opening it. There should be easy instructions for getting it out of the box and unpacked—it was super easy. Even though it’s on the smaller side, you’ll probably want to have a family member or friend on hand to help you unpack it.

Here’s what you’ll find inside:

• WeCreat Vista machine
• Laser module installed in the machine
• Two laser bed pieces
• Air assist set with tube
• Detachable tray
• Power cord and adapter
• Vent pipe, exhaust hose, and exhaust hose connector
• USB cord and USB adapter for USB-C computers
• Screwdrivers, hex key, and wrench
• Mini level
• Grease
• Extra screws
• User manual

If you have purchased accessories with your WeCreat laser (including the rotary kit I mentioned before), you may have other parts not listed above.

Size and Dimensions

The WeCreat Vision weighs about 30 pounds, which I can move but it’s not easy. Again, you may want a second person to help you move it around.

The machine comes almost entirely pre-assembled, which is great. I removed all of the styrofoam and added the exhaust tube to the back. I also installed the air assist (which just had me plug in two tubes and a cable, very easy). It only took me 10 minutes to set up—probably the fastest of any of my lasers.

The actual dimensions of the machine are:

• Machine dimensions: 25.31″ x 18.54″ x 6.53″ (19″ tall when the lid is fully open)
• Machine weight: 30 lbs
• Material area: 16.34″ x 11.42″ for the 10W and 15.55″ x 10.63″ for the 2W IR.

You will need another 8″ or so of space behind the machine for the exhaust pipe and cables.

Safety

The safety features for the Vista are the same as the Vision. I’m always looking for good safety features because I want to make sure I’m keeping both myself and our house safe.

To start, it’s classified as a Class 1 Laser Product, meaning it is considered a safe laser under normal conditions. There is a sticker showing that if you override the lid and use the laser with the lid open, it becomes a Class 4 Laser Product, which is dangerous. So, basically, don’t do that. Always use the laser with the lid closed.

Here are a few more ways that WeCreat has added safety to the Vista:

• It’s fully enclosed with an eye-friendly orange cover. You do not need to wear special glasses to watch your project being processed.
• The laser case is a robust fire-retardant full-metal enclosure.
• If you open the lid, the laser automatically stops.

These features make me comfortable using the WeCreat Vista in my studio.

Venting

Your Vista needs to be vented. When processing, the laser produces fumes and smoke and you’ll need to vent your laser so all of that doesn’t end up in your working space and lungs. The Vista comes with the vent pipe itself, but for actually getting rid of what’s coming through the pipe, you have two options:

• Venting out of a window: you can run the vent pipe out of a window, making sure to seal up the window with an old blanket or piece of cardboard so the smoke doesn’t work its way back inside. This is what I am using for my Vista, along with the WeCreat Booster Fan to help propel all of the smoke out of my studio.
• Venting into a personal filter: if you don’t have access to a window, you can use the WeCreat Smoke Fume Extractor (you may also see this referred to as a filter or smoke filter by other brands) to vent your machine. It’s more expensive and requires new filters occasionally, but it’s good for spaces without access to a window.

What Can the WeCreat Vista Cut and Engrave?

Even though it has a less powerful laser, the WeCreat Vista can cut basically the same things as the WeCreat vision and most other diode lasers.

10W Cutting:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, and more)
• Leather
• MDF
• Felt
• Paper
• Some opaque acrylic (again, see my post How to Cut Acrylic with a Diode Laser for details)

10W Engraving:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, bamboo, and more)
• Leather
• MDF
• Stainless steel, painted metal, plated metal
• Powder coated metal
• Dark glass
• Ceramic
• Natural materials like shale, slate, jade, brick, and marble
• Some opaque acrylic

2W IR Engraving:

• Metal (gold, silver, copper, platinum, stainless steel, and more)
• Plastic
• Some opaque acrylic

This means you can make all sorts of projects, including signs, jewelry, coasters, paper projects, party decorations, dinnerware, home decor projects, games, and more!

WeCreat Vista Software

You can use either WeCreat MakeIt or Light Burn with your Vision. I am using WeCreat MakeIt, so that’s all I’m familiar with. But lots of more seasoned laser users use Light Burn and it’s nice that the Vision can be used with an outside software.

Setting up my Vista was very easy within MakeIt. I did need a USB cord for the first connection, and the machine does come with one. I really appreciated the addition of a tiny adapter that takes USB to USB-C for those of us with newer Mac computers that don’t have a regular USB port.

The software is fairly basic but it gets the job done. More than likely, you won’t be doing detailed design work within the software. It’s more to either cut shapes or text, or to upload designs you’ve made or purchased elsewhere.

If you’re new to laser software, it may take you a bit of time to figure out where everything is, but overall it’s pretty simple.

Special Features

There are a few unique features that I think makes the WeCreat different from other similar diode machines currently on the market.

Flip Laser

I mentioned this before, but instead of having a riser, there is a flippable laser module. This allows you to engrave tumblers and other projects from the side, vs. overhead.

I think the concept of this is really great and I was excited to have a machine with a smaller profile and no riser. But there is an issue where the laser itself can’t engrave as far to the side as it needs. So for example, I wanted to engrave a mug, but it couldn’t engrave more than half of the mug.

This may not matter if you are using a smaller image on a larger tumbler. I chatted with WeCreat and their best option was to buy extender pieces so that your mug is farther away from the rotary tool. Right now you can only buy them third party on places like Etsy. I am hoping that in the future, WeCreat will ship those pieces along with the rotary tool so that the tool is fully functional.

Overhanging Camera

While many other lasers have a camera, I like the innovation that WeCreat used on this machine. Instead of having a fisheye lens on the camera and taking a photo of what’s in the bed of your machine while the lid is closed, the camera is actually at a 45° angle at the front of the lid.

When you refresh your bed image, you do it with the lid of the laser open and the camera overhanging the bed of the laser. This means that camera is much farther above the material than in other lasers. This also means that there is no warping since it’s a regular lens and not a fisheye. Overall this takes a much more accurate photo of your material so you can lay out your projects more precisely.

Air Assist

Another accessory that comes standard with the WeCreat Vista that costs extra on some of the other diode lasers is the Air Assist. This is a tool that basically blows air across your project as it is engraving and cutting. It helps reduce charring and gives you a cleaner final project.

This one was easy to install and turns on and off with the machine and definitely makes a difference when it comes to the quality of your projects. And again, it’s not an extra cost, which is great.

Slate Panels

The Slate Panels are what allows air flow below materials you are cutting. In other machines, similar accessories might be called the crumb tray, the honeycomb tray, or the triangle prisms.

I still think the slate panels are the best of all the options in all of my lasers. There are only two pieces and they stay put when you insert them. They are also easy to take in and out of the machine, which can’t be said for basically any of the other options.

Using the WeCreat Vista

Making a project with the WeCreat Vista is pretty much identical to using the WeCreat Vision, except that the lid is open when you’re taking your bed photo. Check out my review of the WeCreat Vision to make this super cute basswood frame with the material that comes in the box!

I hope you found this review of the WeCreat Vista helpful in your buying decisions. If you have any questions about this laser or any of the other lasers I have, please leave those in the comments!

The post WeCreat Vista Flip Laser Review & Guide for Beginners appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

Machine provided by xTool but all opinions are my own.

Looking for a crafting machine that can do it all? Today I’m excited to share the new xTool M1 Ultra with you! This versatile machine can not only laser cut and engrave, but it can also blade cut (using three different blades), foil, deboss, draw with a pen, and even print! If you’re short on space or if you’re tired of juggling multiple crafting machines, the xTool M1 Ultra might be the perfect fit for your craft space.

I feel like xTool really is innovating in the laser space. With every xTool laser I get, there are new things that I think work so well, and this machine is no different. Of course there are pros and cons to every machine, and I’ll touch on those at the end of this post, but overall, I’m truly impressed with the ideas coming out of the folks at xTool.

In this post, I’m going to give you an overview of this machine, including the specs and all of the different types of crafting you can do with it. Then in a future post, we’ll make a project using several of the tools so you can see how versatile this machine really is. If you have any questions about this machine, please make sure to leave those down in the comments.

This machine is an updated version of the original xTool M1. And when I say updated, I really mean updated. It’s basically a whole new machine with a similar name. If you want to read about the original xTool M1, check out my post The Beginner’s Guide to the xTool M1 Hybrid Laser / Blade Cutter.

Watch the Video

Want to get a video overview of DTF vs. UV DTF? Just hit play below! Or keep reading for a written tutorial.

Setting Up the xTool M1 Ultra

One thing that I appreciate about xTool’s newer machines it that they are incredibly easy to set up. I think it took me about 15 minutes to get it set up once I had unboxed everything. You may be overwhelmed by everything the machine can do and all of the different tools and modules, but definitely don’t be afraid to set it up—I promise, it’s not difficult!

Size and Specifications

Like many diode lasers, the xTool M1 laser is a great size for hobbyists. It weighs about 26.5lbs, so it’s pretty easy to move around.

It’s 24″ wide and 19″ deep, though you’ll need another 3″ in the back to account for the vent pipe and cords. Then it’s only 6.5″ tall when the lid is closed, and about 25″ tall when the lid is open.

I also have the riser base for my machine (a separate add-on) and that adds another 5.5″ to the height. The riser tool allows you to process taller objects, as well as use the RA2 Rotary Attachment, which allows you to engrave tumblers, mugs, and other circular objects. You can read my post How to Use the xTool RA2 Rotary Attachment, which I used in my xTool S1. The process for using it in the xTool M1 Ultra is similar.

I like that the riser base is a single piece instead of several pieces like the original M1 riser base. Much easier to add to the machine, though it’s larger to store when you’re not using it.

The working size in the machine is 11.81″ x 11.81″. The print area using the print head is just slightly smaller. I wish this was a full 12″ x 12″—you can fit that size material in the machine, but you can’t use quite the entire thing.

Venting

Like with any laser machine, the xTool M1 Ultra needs to be vented because laser processing creates dust and fumes. I really like the way the venting works on the machine. There’s a clip-on exhaust fan that pulls air/dust/debris through a filter and out of the machine and through the vent pipe. I love that the vent pipe comes off the back filter toward the side—instead of needing 6″ to 8″ behind the machine to account for the vent pipe, you just need about 3″. This is one of those innovative ideas I mentioned at the start of this post.

You can then either vent the pipe out of a window, or you can use the xTool Desktop Air Filter, which is what I am using. This is a great option if you don’t have a window for venting (for example, if you’re in the basement), though it is an added cost. The size of the desktop air filter is great, though, and very easy to move around your craft space.

Anatomy of the Machine

Now let’s look at the actual machine itself. The enclosure houses a large empty bed where you’ll place your materials.

In the bed of the machine, you have two options to raise your material off the bed of the machine to create air flow (necessary when cutting with the laser). A set of triangle prisms come with the machine. I’ve been pretty clear that I don’t like triangle prisms with my other xTool laser cutters, but they’ve innovated once again, creating a frame to hold them. Hooray! This is definitely better than having loose prisms skittering around the bottom of the machine.

The other option is an add-on honeycomb tray. This is just easier to use than the triangle prisms, even with the frame, but it’s also an extra cost.

The lid is orange like a welder’s helmet. It’s tinted so you won’t damage your eyes when looking at the laser. This is a great safety feature—I’ll talk more about other safety features later in this post.

Then there is the swappable module. This can be swapped out to use different tools (see below) and also has pinpoint positioning, which I love and I will talk more about later.

On the outside, there are two buttons on the front. The white button stars framing (we’ll also talk about that later in this post) and the silver button is for starting the machine itself. There’s also an indicator light.

Then on the back is the vent, and connectors for the power cord, air filter, air assist, and more, as well as the power button.

xTool M1 Ultra Laser Modules

Let’s take a look at all of the different modules and tools you can use with this machine. Some are included and some are add-ons, which I mention below. These are specific to the xTool M1 Ultra, so tools for other lasers or blade cutters will not work in this machine.

Laser Module

The included laser module for the xTool M1 Ultra is a 10W or 20W diode laser. I have the 10W. This is on the lower-power side of laser modules (my xTool S1, for example, is a 40W laser), but it’s still more than capable for many materials, though it’s slower than a higher-powered laser. If you can swing the price, I recommend the 20W.

Using the laser module, you can engrave and score materials like wood, leather, glass, slate, ceramic, paper, and most acrylic. And you can cut up to 8mm wood and most 5mm acrylic, along with other materials like leather and felt.

See my post How to Cut Acrylic with a Diode Laser for more information on cutting acrylic specifically—there are certain things you should know about cutting and engraving acrylic with a diode laser (no matter the wattage) before you purchase.

Multi-Function Carriage Modules

There are two carriage modules for the additional tools that you can get with the xTool M1 Ultra. The first is on the left. The second is an add-on piece on the right.

These two modules can house a bunch of tools—some of them are included and others are add-ons. Let’s look at each of them.

Fine-Point Blade – Left Carriage

The included fine-point blade is designed to cut light and thin materials. Think about the things you can cut on a Cricut or Silhouette—paper, cardstock, adhesive vinyl, and HTV. You’ll use the blue light-grip cutting mat with this tool.

When using this tool, make sure any circular patterns are .79″ or larger—the tool cannot do smaller circumferences very easily.

Cutting Blade – Right Carriage

The add-on cutting blade (also called a knife blade because the blade is much larger, like an Xacto knife) can cut materials like thick leather or balsa wood up to 2.4mm thick. For this one, you’ll use the pink fabric-grip mat.

Honestly, I can’t think of many uses for this particular tool. For most thicker materials, I’m heading right to the laser instead of a blade. But there might be a handful of materials that are thicker but not laser safe—in that case, this blade might be the right choice.

Rotary Blade – Right Carriage

One of my favorite features of my Cricut Maker is the rotary blade for cutting fabric, so it’s nice to see that this is an add-on option in the xTool M1 Ultra as well. It acts like a tiny pizza cutter and slices through fabric easily without dragging. It’s great for not only fabric, but felt as well.

Like with the fine point blade, circular patterns should be at least .79″ or larger. You’ll use the pink fabric-grip mat for this one.

Foil Transfer Tool / Debossing – Right Carriage

Finally, there is an add-on tool that has a dual purpose. It can be used with transfer foil to give your projects a foiled effect.

And then without foil, you can use it to deboss cardstock, leather, and other pliable but stiff materials.

Pen Drawing – Left Carriage

Finally, you can draw with pens that are included with your machine. xTool includes a set of eight colorful pens that work with the left module, and they say there is support for third-party pens as well, but I haven’t had a chance to test that yet. There are also 10 single-line fonts in xTool Creative Space for you to use when writing.

Inkjet Module

The add-on inkjet module gives you three-color printing: cyan, magenta, and yellow. Black is achieved through a combination of all three colors. You can print on paper, but you can also print on things like wood, leather, and more!

Safety

One of the number one things I look for in lasers right now is safety, and the xTool M1 Ultra has a lot of really great safety features, many of which the original M1 did not have.

To start, it’s classified as a Class 1 Laser Product, meaning it is considered a safe laser under normal conditions. Here are a few ways that xTool has added safety to the M1 Ultra:

• It’s fully enclosed with an eye-friendly cover. You do not need to wear special glasses to watch your project being created. Because of the way the cover is designed, you also get a nice side view of your project, not just top-down.
• You need a USB “key” to operate it. This is a small USB dongle that plugs into the back of the laser. If the key is not plugged in, the laser won’t work. Great if you have curious kids! Just put the key in a safe place and they won’t have access to the laser.
• There is a fire detection system that will shut the machine down if a fire is detected.
• If you open the lid, the laser automatically stops.

All of these features make me comfortable using the M1 Ultra in my studio.

Creative Space Software

When I first got my original xTool M1 a few years ago, the software was pretty basic and had a lot of room to grow. xTool has really worked on the software and it’s much easier to use and more robust now. You still probably won’t be doing heavy design work in Creative Space, but there is a lot you can do.

At this time, I am not sure if the xTool M1 Ultra is compatible with Light Burn.

Special Features

In addition to all of the different swappable modules and tools, there are some other great features I want to mention here.

Pinpoint Laser Positioning

In xTool Creative Space, there is a red crosshairs marking where the laser is at all times. This small addition helps you keep track of the laser when process marking and checking the height of your material.

No Camera + Process Marking

Every other laser I have has a camera in the lid so you can see your material in the bed of the machine. Then you can place your design on top of the material within the software.

Instead of a camera, the xTool M1 has a “marking” system in xTool Creative Space that gives you twin point positioning. I’ve been using this feature in the xTool S1 and have come to prefer it over an internal camera. It’s much more accurate than a camera because a camera in the lid must be a fisheye lens to capture the entire bed of the machine. And because of the nature of a fisheye lens, you’re going to get some warping of your view, especially at the outer edges. This means your processing might not be accurate.

But with the marking system, you physically move the laser head to the corners of your material (or the corners of where you want to cut/score/engrave) and the laser will show you crosshairs on your material. Push the white button on the front of the machine to mark that first point. Then go to a second corner and do the same. With this method, the laser knows exactly where the material is and can cut accurately. You can mark rectangles, circles, polygons, and lines using the xTool Creative Space software.

You can read more about how this works in my post xTool S1 Review & Guide for Beginners.

Framing

Finally, there is a framing feature which I also really like. Before you make your project, you can choose “framing” and the machine will outline where your image is going to process with a red laser light. It allows you to physically see where your image is going to go which is a great way to double-check that your project is going to turn out correctly.

Let’s make a project using some of the features in this machine!

Phone Processing

You can also use a mobile app to run the xTool M1 Ultra! If you don’t have a computer, this is a great option.

xTool M1 Ultra Price

When I saw the pricing for the xTool M1 Ultra, I was pleasantly surprised. For the base model, which comes with the 10W laser module, along with the fine point blade, cutting blade, and a pen, the cost is around $1300. This is in line with many other diode lasers on the market.

If you want to get it with all the bells and whistles, including the 20W laser, all of the modules and tools, the honeycomb tray, air filter, air assist, RA2 Pro, and more, then you can get the all-inclusive bundle for $2700. This seems like a great price to me considering everything you get and how all of the accessories can expand the number of things you can make with your laser!

Is the xTool M1 Ultra Worth It?

I think so! I now have six diode lasers, and while I don’t think there’s a bad laser in the bunch, the additional tools and processes you can use with the xTool M1 Ultra make it one of my top picks. I would recommend getting that 20W module if your budget can swing it.

Overall this is a great laser for beginners with lots of really wonderful features. I don’t think you’ll be disappointed if you add it to your craft room!

I hope you found this review of the xTool M1 Ultra helpful! If you have any questions, as always, leave those down in the comments.

The post The Beginner’s Guide to the xTool M1 Ultra appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

Today I’m reviewing the 20W WeCreat Vision laser. This is actually my number one most requested review right now, so when WeCreat reached out to me about trying out the Vision, it was an easy yes. So many of you have seen the unique auto-lifting feature and wondered if this is a good laser, especially for first-time laser users.

This is my fifth diode laser and I will be doing an upcoming post and video comparing the different machines soon. But for this post, we’re going to go over the basics of the WeCreat Vision, including some of the specs, important safety features, and the materials it can cut. I’ll also give you my overall pros and cons and who might be the ideal user for this machine.

Save $100 on a WeCreat Vision with my code MAKESTUFF!

Let’s dive in to this WeCreat Vision review!

What is the WeCreat Vision Laser?

The WeCreat Vision is a diode laser crafting machine. You can cut, score, and engrave using the Vision to make all sorts of projects, like tumblers, signs, jewelry, art, party decorations, home decor objects, and more!

One thing that sets it apart from it’s competitors is a auto-lift feature. This means that you do not need to buy a separate riser base to make taller projects. It also means it’s easier to move around than a laser that has a separate base.

The WeCreat is designed to be beginner friendly so if you’re new to the laser crafting world, this is definitely a laser you should add to your list to research. I found it easy to set up and use, making it a great option if you want to get started laser crafting.

The WeCreat Vision Laser Modules

Like I said above, the WeCreat comes with one of two laser modules—the 20W or the 40W. There is also an infrared laser module that is designed specifically for etching metal. All of the laser heads are swappable, so you do not need a separate laser for each of these.

• S1 with 20W laser – better for engraving details
• S2 with 40W laser – better for cutting wood
• Infrared laser module – can’t cut but allows you to etch metal and other materials

I went with the 20W laser because I already have a 40W diode laser and I wanted a machine to do even more detailed engraving. If you are more interested in cutting, then you might want to opt for the 40W. Overall, however, I think 20W is a sweet spot for diode lasers—great speed, great engraving, good cutting, lower price.

Size and Dimensions

The WeCreat Vision weighs about 44 pounds, which is too large for me to move just the machine itself comfortably. My husband was able to do it, but really it’s a two-person job.

The machine comes almost entirely pre-assembled, which is great. I removed all of the styrofoam and added the exhaust tube to the back. I also installed the Wi-Fi antenna and the air assist (which just had me plug in two tubes and a cable, very easy). It maybe took me 15 minutes to set up.

The actual dimensions of the machine are:

• Machine dimensions: 23.19″ x 20.91″ x 9.96″ (15.47″ tall when it’s lifted, 32″ tall when it’s lifted and the lid is open)
• Machine weight: 42 lbs
• Material area: 15.75″ x 10.63″

You will need another 8″ or so of space behind the machine for the exhaust pipe and cables.

Safety

One of the number one things I look for in lasers right now is safety, and the WeCreat has some good safety features.

To start, it’s classified as a Class 1 Laser Product, meaning it is considered a safe laser under normal conditions. There is a sticker showing that if you override the locking mechanism and use the laser with the lid open, it becomes a Class 4 Laser Product, which is dangerous. So, basically, don’t do that. Always use the laser with the lid closed.

Here are a few more ways that WeCreat has added safety to the Vision:

• It’s fully enclosed with an eye-friendly orange cover. You do not need to wear special glasses to watch your project being processed.
• The laser case is a robust fire-retardant full-metal enclosure.
• If you open the lid, the laser automatically stops.

All of these features make me comfortable using a laser in my studio. I always have a fire extinguisher and fire blanket, just in case. You can read more about everything I have on hand when I’m using my laser in my post Must-Have Laser Supplies.

Venting

Your Vision needs to be vented. The scoring, engraving, and cutting processes create fumes and smoke and debris and you’ll need to vent your laser so all of that doesn’t end up in your craft room and lungs. The Vision comes with the vent pipe itself, but for the actually venting, you have two options:

• Venting out of a window: you can run the vent pipe out of a window, making sure to seal up the window with an old blanket or piece of cardboard so the smoke doesn’t work its way back inside. This is what I am using for my Vision, along with the WeCreat Booster Fan to help propel all of the smoke out of my studio.
• Venting into a personal filter: if you don’t have access to a window, you can use the WeCreat Smoke Fume Extractor (you may also see this referred to as a filter or smoke filter) to vent your machine. It’s more expensive and requires new filters occasionally, but it’s good for spaces without access to a window.

What Can the WeCreat Vision Cut and Engrave?

So what can you make with the WeCreat Vision? Lots of projects with lots of materials!

The WeCreat Vision 40W and 20W cut:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, and more)
• Leather
• MDF
• Felt
• Paper
• Some opaque acrylic (again, see my post How to Cut Acrylic with a Diode Laser for details)

The WeCreat Vision 40W and 20W engrave:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, bamboo, and more)
• Leather
• MDF
• Stainless steel, painted metal, plated metal
• Powder coated metal
• Dark glass
• Ceramic
• Natural materials like shale, slate, jade, brick, and marble
• Some opaque acrylic

The Infrared Laser module engraves:

• Metal (gold, silver, copper, platinum, stainless steel, and more)
• Plastic
• Some opaque acrylic

This means you can make all sorts of projects, including signs, jewelry, coasters, paper projects, party decorations, dinnerware, home decor projects, games, and more!

What Software Works with the WeCreat Vision?

You can use either WeCreat MakeIt or Light Burn with your Vision. I am using WeCreat MakeIt, so that’s all I’m familiar with. But lots of more seasoned laser users use Light Burn and it’s nice that the Vision can be used with an outside software.

Setting up my Vision was very easy within MakeIt. I did need a USB cord for the first connection, and the machine does come with one. I really appreciated the addition of a tiny adapter that takes USB to USB-C for those of us with newer Mac computers that don’t have a regular USB port. After that first connection, I had no trouble getting it to connect to my WiFi.

The software is fairly basic but it gets the job done. You can tell that they are working on adding more features and functionality. More than likely, you won’t be doing heavy design work within the software. It’s more to either cut shapes or text, or to upload designs you’ve made or purchased elsewhere.

They do have some advanced functionality like creating jigsaw puzzles and AI images, but I haven’t had a chance to play around with them much.

I’ll use WeCreat MakeIt when making a quick project toward the end of this post, but overall I found it pretty easy to use, though there were a few things that took me a bit of time to figure out.

Special Features

There are some unique features that I think makes the WeCreat different from other similar diode machines currently on the market.

Auto-Lifting

Of course, one of the coolest things about this machines is the auto-lifting feature. Instead of purchasing a separate riser base and setting your laser on top, the riser is integrated into the WeCreat. The machine uses the built-in HD camera will measure the height of your material and the riser will adjust automatically.

Which means that you can engrave projects that are just over 5.5″ tall without having to spend any extra money on a riser base.

That being said, if you are any shorter than I am (about 5″6′), you may want to put your WeCreat on a shorter table or have a step stool available. It’s just a bit tall at full height for anyone shorter than me. I have an adjustable workbench and I’ve set it slightly lower than the other tables in my office and it functions quite well.

Air Assist

Another accessory that comes standard with the WeCreat that is extra on some of the other diode lasers is the Air Assist. This is a tool that basically blows air across your project as it is engraving and cutting. It helps reduce charring and allows your laser to cut more cleanly.

While my preference is a totally integrated air assist (one that is not a separate part from the laser), having a separate air assist that is included with the price and includes easy installation is the second best option.

This one was easy to install and turns on and off with the machine and definitely makes a difference when it comes to the quality of your projects. And again, it’s not an extra cost, which is great.

Slate Panels

The Slate Panels are what allows air flow below materials you are cutting. In other machines, similar accessories might be called the crumb tray, the honeycomb tray, or the triangle prisms.

Out of all of the options, I think these WeCreat slate panels have the best design. They are just two single pieces that are lightweight and easy to remove from the machine. Additionally, there’s no extra pieces to buy (the honeycomb tray is an additional expense on some other lasers).

Quick View Matrix

Inside WeCreat MakeIt, they have integrated the Quick View Matrix for a lot of materials. This is basically a visual representation of what different settings for engraving will look like on your particular material. For example, here are two of the matrixes for Basswood and Faux Leather. You can actually click on each of the squares to choose your setting.

They also give you the ability to create your own testing matrix, which can be super helpful if you’re working with a material that is not covered under WeCreat’s Quick View Matrix. I have found this very helpful and I will be doing a specific post about testing laser materials soon.

Smart Fill

Finally they have a feature called Smart Fill. Let’s say you have 10 identical wood keychains that you want to engrave with the same image. You’ll place them in the bed of the machine and then the Smart Fill function adds the design to all 10 keychains. It’s a quick way to make a bunch of identical products at one time.

Note that you can’t use black items because the software uses the black backing of the crumb tray to help determine where your material is.

Using the WeCreat Vision

To start, I placed a piece of basswood in the ned of my machine. When you close the lid, you’ll need to click Refresh in the MakeIt software in the upper right and the HD camera will take a photo of your material in the bed of the machine. Other lasers have an auto-refresh, so I found myself wondering why it didn’t automatically take a photo when I closed the lid. Just something to be aware of.

For this project, I chose an engraved frame from the WeCreat library. It automatically opens in the MakeIt software and is basically ready to make. I always suggest that new laser users start with an easy project like this to get their feet wet in the laser crafting world.

At the bottom, you can see there are two canvases because this project has too many parts to fit on a single piece. We’ll cut and engrave the first canvas, and then do the second one after.

The layers are on the bottom right and the colors you see allow you to change the colors of your layers. These colors will have nothing to do with your final image. They are just there so you can change the colors of your layers (a brown layer on top of a brown material, for example, is hard to see). I have a red layer (cut) and a blue layer (engrave) for this project.

At the top of the panel on the left, you’ll see a few other options. This is a flat project, so I am using Laser Flat. I have my WeCreat connected.

And then I have my material selected. I used the Quick View Matrix to choose 200 speed and 80 power. I thought it was a nice medium engrave for this particular material.

Click the Auto Focus button and your laser will measure the height of your material and set the auto-rise feature to match.

Now we’re ready to make it! Click Start in the upper right. You’ll see an image of your file along with the estimated processing time.

From here, you can go ahead and just cut and engrave your project, but I prefer to use the framing function first. After pressing Framing, look into your laser and it will “draw” a red pinpoint of light around the edge of your image. If for some reason your image is going off the edge of your material or has some other issue, you can see it during the framing.

I do have one issue with the framing here. It automatically starts…and my laser is across the room from my computer. So there’s no easy way for me to click that framing button and actually see the framing happen. I wish that it required one more step—having to click the button on the front of the machine to start the framing. For now, I have to unplug my computer and bring it across the room or have my kids click Framing for me.

Once you see that your framing is correct, you’re ready to go! Click Start and your WeCreat will get to work!

When your first layer is done, remove the pieces from your laser and insert your second material. Click on the Refresh button to see a new image of your material and use the AutoFocus once again.

Click on the second Canvas to see the rest of the parts we need to cut. This one is just cutting, so no need to use the Quick Matrix to choose your engraving settings. I only had two smaller pieces of basswood for these, so I carefully laid out my images so that they would fit properly.

Click Start and use the Framing function to make sure your project looks correct. Then click Start to finish the rest of your pieces!

Assembling the Project

None of the projects in the WeCreat library currently have instructions, which can be a little frustrating. I’m hoping they will add them soon. This frame was somewhat easy to assemble, though I think I didn’t do it *quite* right—just close. But I love how it looks!

Pros and Cons of the WeCreat Vision Laser

Overall, the WeCreat Vision is a good laser for a beginner. My cons are pretty minor overall and I think that this is definitely a comparable laser to others on the market with some great features that aren’t found elsewhere.

I hope you found this overview of the WeCreat Vision helpful for your purchasing decisions! As always, if you have any comments or questions, please leave those below.

The post WeCreat Vision Laser Review & Guide for Beginners appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

The xTool RA2 Rotary Attachment allows you to laser engrave and score on circular objects! This greatly expands the types of projects you can make using your xTool.

I’ll be honest—it’s taken me months to get my xTool RA2 Rotary Attachment out of the box so I could learn how to use it. For some reason, I found all of the pieces really intimidating and I put it off for a long time, even though I knew I could make all sorts of amazing projects with it. If you find it all intimidating as well, you’re in good company!

But I finally got up the nerve to give it a shot recently and I am so glad I did! This tool has a bit of a learning curve (pun intended!), but the results you can get with it are absolutely amazing. It really does give you so many more options when it comes to laser crafting and the detail it can engrave is pretty spectacular.

In today’s post, we’re going to go over how to make a basic straight-sided tumbler using this tool. I want you to get comfortable using this tool with an easy project. Then in future posts, we’ll talk about how to do tapered tumblers (including 40oz Stanley tumblers) and beer glasses, as well as learn how to engrave round objects like ornaments.

I’m using my xTool S1 for this tutorial, but the tool works in other xTool laser machines as well, including the P2, the M1, and the D1. While my tutorial will give you an overview of how to use the tool, you will want to research other tutorials for your specific machine. See my full xTool S1 Review & Guide for Beginners for more information about this specific laser.

Watch the Video

Want to see the xTool Rotary Attachment in action? Just hit play below! Or keep reading for a written tutorial.

Supplies

Here’s what you’ll need to make a tumbler using the RA2 Rotary Attachment

• xTool laser
• RA2 Rotary Tool
• Tumbler
• Magic eraser

Straight Sided Tumblers

This tutorial will only work on truly straight-sided tumblers. I got a pack of these colorful tumblers and I really like them. Unfortunately, their products do seem to be running out and I’m not sure if they will restock. But there are other options as well.

I did get some tumblers that I thought had straight sides, but the bottom diameter was about .25″ smaller than the top. As I was testing, I found the the taper acted a bit like a screw and the tumbler moved down the rollers, which would mess up the final image. I ended up returning them.

So make sure you get truly straight-sided tumblers to make this project. The top and bottom diameter should be equal. If you want to do something with a taper, you’ll have to use the chucks, which I will talk about in future tutorial.

What’s in the Box

I have the xTool RA2 Pro Rotary Attachment. Because this is the Pro version, it comes with more pieces than the regular RA2. You can still use this tutorial if you have the regular RA2, but you won’t have as many pieces and you won’t be able to make quite as many projects in upcoming tutorials. But you WILL be able to make the simple tumbler I am making in this post today!

For this straight-sided tumbler, you will only need the cord, the large main piece with the two rollers, and a measuring tape. Everything else is for more complex projects like tapered tumblers.

Riser Base

You will need the riser base for your laser so there is enough room for your project. I talked about setting up the riser base in my post xTool S1 Accessories. Other types of xTool machines will have different ways to set up their particular riser bases.

Measuring Your Tumbler

Next we’re going to measure our tumbler. If you’re using a regular-sized tumbler, you’ll keep the rollers in the “C” position the RA2 comes in. For example, the 20oz tumblers I have are 72mm across, so they easily work with the C slot. If you have something significantly smaller, you may need to unscrew and move the rollers to the other positions:

• A position: 3mm to 50mm
• B position: 45 to 60mm
• C position: 60mm or larger

Using the RA2 Rotary Attachment

Choose the Right Cord

The rotary tool comes with 3 different cords. Be sure to select the cord for your particular machine. For my S1, I am using the cord that has one end that looks like a mini USB and a white connector on the other end.

Set Up the Rotary Tool

Place your RA2 base into the bed of your laser. Try to get it as straight as you can in the machine.

Plug In the Rotary Attachment

The USB slot for the S1 is a bit hard to find. It’s actually inside at the front of the machine. Plug in the rotary attachment—this will bring power to the tool.

Setting Up xTool Creative Space

Let’s head into xTool Creative Space to get it set up for using the rotary attachment. (note I am using the new Beta version of xTool Creative Space). Note that the red + on my canvas is the location of my laser head within the machine. This is one of the things I really like about the xTool S1!

The first thing we need to do is change our mode to using the rotary attachment instead of processing a flat object on the baseplate.

Now you’ll see that the size and shape of our canvas has changed.

Add the Tumbler to the Laser

Place your tumbler inside your laser on top of the two RA2 rollers. The rollers will turn as the project processes so you can engrave all the way around cylindrical objects.

Determine the Height of the Tumbler

Now we need to measure the height of our tumbler so that the laser will be properly focused. Place your laser head over the center of the tumbler. You want it to be anywhere along the highest point of the tumbler.

Now back in Creative Space, click the auto-measure crosshairs to the right of the distance tool. This will prompt your machine to take a measurement of the height of your tumbler.

Then move the laser head so the crosshairs are at the top edge of your tumbler in the center.

Set up the File

Now upload your file to Creative Space. I’ve sized my file to fit most 20oz tumblers, but again you may want to double check the size of your tumbler and resize as needed.

You’ll need to rotate and place your image using the red + as a guide. The top of my tumbler is where my red + is. I wanted BOOKTROVERT to read down the side of the tumbler. So I placed my image centered on that red +. Make sure your image is facing “up” (in this case, up is facing toward the right because the tumbler is sideways in the machine).

NOTE: If you’d like to use your own design, measure the height and circumference of your tumbler and make sure your design is within those measurements and align it with the red + like I did here. You can draw a rectangle and then delete it before engraving if that helps.

Change the Settings

With the image selected, you’ll see that the Object tab in the sidebar is selected. First make sure your processing type is set to Engrave.

Then I really like this new EasySet panel for selecting your settings. I played around with a few different settings and for my laser and my tumblers, I found that 75% power, 300mm/s speed, and 240 lines per cm worked really well. You may need to play around with your settings if you find that your engraving is too deep or too shallow.

Framing Your Image

Next you’ll want to frame your image. Don’t skip this step! This will visually tell you that your image is going to go where you think it should go. Click on framing at the top and you’ll get this message.

Then walk over to your laser and press the button.

Watch the crosshairs on your laser as they frame around where your image will go. The rollers will spin your tumbler. If at any point during this process it looks like your image will NOT be on the tumbler, start over.

I wasn’t really sure what I was doing when I started and when I tried to make a similar tumbler for the first time, I saw that my framing didn’t go all the way to the top. I proceeded anyway. And now I have a tumbler with a half inch of missing image at the top. Whomp whomp.

If the framing looks good, click Framing Completed in Creative Space.

Engrave Your Tumbler

If your framing looks good, you’re on your way! Make sure you are venting your laser (I used my personal filter) and if you have air assist, turn it on.

Click Process in the upper right. Your image will be processed and then you can click start. Close your laser’s lid and press the button to engrave your tumbler!

This tumbler took about an hour and a half to engrave. So not fast, but it had a lot of detail.

Your tumbler may look really charred, but not to worry. A magic eraser and some water will clean it right up! It’s actually my favorite part of the entire process!

It looks SO good! I am really excited about using the RA2 more with other types of projects. Stay tuned!

Print

HOW TO USE THE xTOOL RA2 ROTARY ATTACHMENT

Want to make more with your xTool laser? Grab the xTool RA2 Rotary Attachment! Make tumblers, mugs, glasses, ornaments, and more with this flexible tool.

Keyword Engrave, Score, xTool

Author Cori George

Equipment

• xTool RA2 Rotary Attachment
• xTool laser
• Magic eraser

Ingredients

• Tumbler
• Free Tumbler Engraving File #L14

Instructions

• Straight Sided Tumblers

  These instructions will only work on truly straight-sided tumblers, so make sure you get truly straight-sided tumblers to make this project. The top and bottom diameter should be equal. If you want to do something with a taper, you'll have to use the chucks, which will be coming in a future tutorial.

  What's in the Box

  These instructions use the xTool RA2 Pro Rotary Attachment. Because this is the Pro version, it comes with more pieces than the regular RA2. You can still use these instructions if you have the regular RA2, but you won't have as many pieces and you won't be able to make quite as many projects in upcoming tutorials. But you WILL be able to make the simple tumbler that is being I am making in this post today!

  For this straight-sided tumbler, you will only need the cord, the large main piece with the two rollers, and a measuring tape. Everything else is for more complex projects like tapered tumblers.

  Riser Base

  You will need the riser base for your laser so there is enough room for your project. This post talks about setting up the riser base – xTool S1 Accessories. Other types of xTool machines will have different ways to set up their particular riser bases.
  
• Measuring Your Tumbler

  Next you will need to measure your tumbler. If you're using a regular-sized tumbler, you'll keep the rollers in the "C" position the RA2 comes in. For example, the 20oz tumblers used for this project are 72mm across, so they easily work with the C slot. If you have something significantly smaller, you may need to unscrew and move the rollers to the other positions:

  A position: 3mm to 50mm

  B position: 45 to 60mm

  C position: 60mm or larger
• Using the RA2 Rotary Attachment

  Choose the Right Cord – The rotary tool comes with 3 different cords. Be sure to select the cord for your particular machine. For the S1, the cord that has one end that looks like a mini USB and a white connector on the other end was used.

  Set Up the Rotary Tool

  Place your RA2 base into the bed of your laser. Try to get it as straight as you can in the machine.
  
• Plug In the Rotary Attachment

  The USB slot for the S1 is a bit hard to find. It's actually inside at the front of the machine. Plug in the rotary attachment—this will bring power to the tool.
  
• Setting Up xTool Creative Space

  Let's head into xTool Creative Space to get it set up for using the rotary attachment. (the new Beta version of xTool Creative Space is being used for this project). Note that the red + on the canvas is the location of my laser head within the machine. This is one of the things that is really liked about the xTool S1!
  
• The first thing you need to do is change our mode to use the rotary attachment instead of processing a flat object on the baseplate.
  
• Now you'll see that the size and shape of the canvas has changed.
  
• Add the Tumbler to the Laser

  Place your tumbler inside your laser on top of the two RA2 rollers. The rollers will turn as the project processes so you can engrave all the way around cylindrical objects.
  
• Determine the Height of the Tumbler

  Now you need to measure the height of the tumbler so that the laser will be properly focused. Place your laser head over the center of the tumbler. You want it to be anywhere along the highest point of the tumbler.
  
• Now back in Creative Space, click the auto-measure crosshairs to the right of the distance tool. This will prompt your machine to take a measurement of the height of your tumbler.
  
• Then move the laser head so the crosshairs are at the top edge of your tumbler in the center.
  
• Set up the File

  Now upload your file to Creative Space. This file was sized to fit most 20oz tumblers, but again you may want to double check the size of your tumbler and resize as needed.
  
• You'll need to rotate and place your image using the red + as a guide. The top of the tumbler is where the red + is. To have BOOKTROVERT read down the side of the tumbler, the image was placed centered on the red +. Make sure your image is facing "up" (in this case, up is facing toward the right because the tumbler is sideways in the machine).

  NOTE: If you'd like to use your own design, measure the height and circumference of your tumbler and make sure your design is within those measurements and align it with the red + like was done here. You can draw a rectangle and then delete it before engraving if that helps.
  
• Change the Settings

  With the image selected, you'll see that the Object tab in the sidebar is selected. First make sure your processing type is set to Engrave.

  Use EasySet panel for selecting your settings. It has been found that 75% power, 300mm/s speed, and 240 lines per cm worked really well. You may need to play around with your settings if you find that your engraving is too deep or too shallow.
  
• Framing Your Image

  Next you'll want to frame your image. Don't skip this step! This will visually tell you that your image is going to go where you think it should go. Click on framing at the top and you'll get this message.
  
• Then walk over to your laser and press the button.
  
• Watch the crosshairs on your laser as they frame around where your image will go. The rollers will spin your tumbler. If at any point during this process it looks like your image will NOT be on the tumbler, start over.

  This image shows a first time attempt making a tumbler where the framing didn't go all the way to the top but proceeded with the engraving anyway. As you can see the tumbler has a half inch of missing image at the top!

  If the framing looks good, click Framing Completed in Creative Space.
  
• Engrave Your Tumbler

  If your framing looks good, you're on your way! Make sure you are venting your laser (for this project a personal filter was used) and if you have air assist, turn it on.

  Click Process in the upper right. Your image will be processed and then you can click start. Close your laser's lid and press the button to engrave your tumbler!

  This tumbler took about an hour and a half to engrave. So not fast, but it had a lot of detail.
  
• Your tumbler may look really charred, but not to worry. A magic eraser and some water will clean it right up! It's actually my favorite part of the entire process!
  

The post How to Use the xTool RA2 Rotary Attachment appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.