Machine was provided by WeCreat but all opinions are my own.

We know that I’ve reviewed a lot of amazing lasers (see below to access my Laser Comparison Chart!), but today I have a type of laser I haven’t reviewed before and I’m excited to share it with you.

This is the new WeCreat Lumos, a portable 3W infrared / 10W diode laser that can engrave and cut a wide variety of materials. This is the first laser I’ve tested and reviewed that would be small enough to tote to a craft market or other event to do on-site projects!

In today’s post, we’re going to go over the basics of the WeCreat Lumos, including some of the specs, important safety features, and the materials it can engrave and cut. I’ll also give you my overall pros and cons and who might be the ideal user for this machine.

Let’s dive in to this WeCreat Lumos review!

Watch the Video of my WeCreat Lumos Review

Watch my full review video about the WeCreat Lumos! If you prefer to read, continue on below this video!

What is the WeCreat Lumos?

The WeCreat Lumos features a powerful 3W infrared (IR) laser—an upgrade from the 2W IR lasers found in most competing models. Paired with a 10W blue diode laser, this laser offers fast, high-precision engraving and cutting on a wide range of materials.

With its compact footprint and small working area, this laser is ideal for small-scale projects like coasters, keychains, jewelry, leather patches, and more. Designed with portability in mind, it’s lightweight and easy to carry—making it a great choice for craft markets, maker events, or on-the-go production. It’s also ideal for crafters with limited space who want to get into laser crafting. Not to mention, it’s a pretty purple color!

There is also an additional rotary tool and extension module for making projects like tumblers and mugs. I don’t have these accessories so I can’t speak to them, but they should expand the capabilities of your machine if you choose to get them.

Overall it’s very easy to use and good for both beginners and small businesses, as you’ll see!

Machine Cost

The WeCreat Lumos retails for $2399. But you can save a lot during the launch period of June 20, 2025 – July 22, 2025!

During the launch period, deposit $50 and unlock up to $2000 in savings and exclusive perks! Plus, your deposit is 100% refundable!

• Up to $2,000 off the list price
• Free magnetic protective cone (limited to 500 units)
• Free 12-month Premium Membership ($96 value)

If you miss the launch period, don’t worry! WeCreat has a lot of good sales on their products running all the time—you should still pay less than list price!

What is a Diode Laser vs. an Infrared Laser?

The WeCreat Lumos is a dual-laser engraver, meaning it has two types of lasers in one—a 3W infrared laser and a 10W diode laser.

For the purposes of this comparison, to put it simply, the color of the laser is the biggest difference here. A diode laser is blue while the infrared laser is is on the infrared spectrum. WeCreat denotes these as the “blue laser” and the “red laser.”

Because a diode laser is blue, it will not process clear, most blue, or most transparent colors of acrylic—the laser passes right through, no matter the wattage. You can read more in my post How to Cut Acrylic with a Diode Laser. But a diode laser is great at processing more natural materials, like wood, leather, slate, etc.

Then there is the infrared lasers. A CO2 infrared laser is in the wavelength that can process acrylic—that’s not this machine. The infrared laser in the WeCreat Lumos is in the wavelength to engrave metal, not process acrylic. So in addition to all of the natural materials I mentioned above, you’ll also be able to engrave metal, something that’s not possible with a CO2 laser.

If you are looking to process a wide variety of acrylic, definitely look at a CO2 machine. But if you’re more interested in processing wood, leather, slate, and metal (engraving only) in your laser, the WeCreat Lumos could be an excellent option for you!

How the Laser Beam is Processed

I wasn’t really sure what to call this section, but if you’ve used another type of laser in the past, you’ll know that the laser module itself runs along rails to move it in position above your material while processing.

This laser, however, uses a fixed laser to process your materials. Think of it more like a spotlight, shining down on your project.

The only place I noticed this was when I cut a material toward the outside of the material processing area. Because the laser is being created at the center of the lens, the laser actually leaves the laser module at a slight angle. This means that the edges of your cuts may not be completely straight (perpendicular to the material), as you can see here:

It’s not something that would stop me from purchasing this laser, but it may affect how 3D projects or puzzle-type projects are assembled. I have it on my list to do some testing in this particular area, so stay tuned.

Engraving, however, does not seem to be affected by the fixed laser, at least it didn’t seem to in my tests, as you’ll see below.

The fixed laser also means it’s REALLY fast because it doesn’t need the time to move along the rails.

What’s in the Box?

The box is packed well, and it was easy to unbox by myself. Here’s what you’ll find inside:

• WeCreat Lumos machine
• Power cord
• USB cord
• USB adapter (turns the USB-A to USB-C)
• Vent pipe with clamp ring
• Screwdriver + hex wrench
• Two base plates (one for engraving and one for cutting)
• Pack of 3mm basswood for test projects

If you have purchased accessories with your WeCreat Lumos, you may have other parts not listed above.

Size and Dimensions

The WeCreat Lumos is much smaller and more portable than any of my other lasers. In fact, they expect you to move it around—it has a handle right on the top! The whole thing only weighs about 15.5lbs, making it very easy to move around compared to other lasers.

The machine comes almost entirely pre-assembled, which is great. I removed some tape pieces and added the exhaust tube to the back using a few screws. It probably took me a total of 20 minutes to set up.

The actual dimensions of the machine are:

• Machine dimensions: 9.5″ wide x 10.6″ deep x 12.3″ tall
• Machine weight: 15.5 lbs (about 25 lbs in the box)
• Working area: 4.56″ x 4.56″

You will need another 8″ or so of space behind the machine for the exhaust pipe. And add another 4.5″ to the height for when the safety enclosure is raised.

Safety

One of the number one things I look for in lasers right now is safety, and while this laser doesn’t have a ton of safety features, I am comfortable using it in my craft room.

• It’s classified as a Class 1 Laser Product, meaning it is considered a safe laser under normal working conditions.
• It’s fully enclosed with an eye-friendly safety cover. You do not need to wear special glasses to watch your project being created. That being said, there are ways to process larger projects while the safety enclosure is raised. In those conditions, you will need laser-safe eyewear.
• There is a flame detection system that will shut the machine down if a fire is detected.

Note that this machine will not turn off if you open the safety enclosure. This means you need to be extra careful around children and other people who might want to try and open the laser while it is processing.

I also always have a fire extinguisher and fire blanket, just in case. You can read more about everything I have on hand when I’m using my laser in my post Must-Have Laser Supplies.

Venting

All lasers need to be vented. The scoring, engraving, and cutting processes create fumes and smoke and debris and you’ll need to vent your laser so all of that doesn’t end up in your craft room and lungs.

The WeCreat Lumos has a regular vent pipe that attaches with a pipe clamp. These are a bit difficult for me to use compared to some of the other vent designs on competitor machines, but I was able to clamp it to the back of my machine with a little elbow grease.

Then to actually vent the machine, there are two options:

• Venting out of a window: you can run the vent pipe out of a window, making sure to seal up the window with an old blanket or piece of cardboard so the smoke doesn’t work its way back inside.
• Venting into a personal filter: if you don’t have access to a window, you’ll need an air filter. You can get the WeCreat AirGuard Ultra Fume Extractor, or you can connect your machine to another brand pr filter if you have one. Note that the vent pipe for this machine is 3″ wide and you will need a compatible air filter to make it work.

What Materials can the WeCreat Lumos Process?

So what can you make with the WeCreat Lumos? Lots of projects with up to 800 different materials!

Diode Cutting:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, and more)
• Leather
• MDF
• Felt
• Paper
• Some dark opaque acrylic

Diode Engraving:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, bamboo, and more)
• Leather
• MDF
• Coated stainless steel, painted metal, plated metal
• Ceramic
• Natural materials like shale, slate, jade, brick, and marble
• Some dark opaque acrylic

Infrared Engraving:

• Uncoated metal (gold, silver, copper, platinum, stainless steel, and more)

This means you can make all sorts of projects, including keychains, jewelry, coasters, small home decor pieces, ornaments, wine glass charms, magnets, leather patches, felt flowers, place cards, and more.

And if you have the rotary tool and extension module, you can engrave even more, including tumblers, baseball bats, rolling pins, mugs, and more!

What Software Works with the WeCreat Lumos?

You can use either WeCreat Make It or Light Burn with your Lumos. I use WeCreat Make It, so that’s all I’m familiar with. But lots of more seasoned laser users use Light Burn and it’s nice that the Lumos can be used with an outside software.

Setting up my WeCreat Lumos was pretty easy within WeCreat Make It. You’ll need a USB cord for the first connection, and the machine does come with one. After that first connection, I had no trouble getting it to connect to my WiFi. That being said, I did have times where the machine disconnected from my WiFi and I had to restart it. This may be due to the fact I received a pre-production module or that sometimes my own internet connection can be a little dicey.

Special Features

Here are a few things I really liked about this machine that I think you’ll like too.

Dynamic Framing

One of my favorite features of this machine is the framing option. Other lasers have framing and I use it all the time, but the framing on the WeCreat Lumos is…dynamic. I’m not sure there’s a better word for it. When you engage the framing before you actually make your project, a bright blue laser line will appear right where your image will be processed. This allows you to move either your image in WeCreat Make It or your actual material so that the image is processing in the exact place you want it.

That means that I was able to get my projects perfectly centered every time. Five stars to this feature!

Positioning Pieces

Also included are two positioning pieces. These basically allow you to create a jig anywhere on the base plate using the two screws included with the positioning pieces.

So let’s say you have 30 identical keychains you want to make. Instead of having to line up the image on each one, you can place one or two of the positioning pieces on the base plate. Then abut your keychain to the positioning piece in the same place every time. This way, you can just hit “process” again and again, speeding up your making time!

Two Ways to Focus

The machine has two ways to focus the laser beam on your material to make sure you are measuring your material height correctly (this is so your engraving will be the most clear). You can click the autofocus button in the software and the camera will estimate the height of your material.

Or, you can use the manual height dial on the back of the machine. You just twist the dial until the red dot and the blue dot line up. It’s not often that I say I like a manual adjustment more than an automatic adjustment, but in this case, I preferred the dial. It was just faster and kind of fun to make sure the two dots matched up. Very tactile. I think for the most part, I’d use the manual focus over the autofocus every time.

WeCreat Lumos Project Results!

I grabbed a bunch of different materials to see just how well the WeCreat Lumos worked. I decided to use a single wildflower laser image on a variety of materials so I could compare the quality for each project. I put my material settings below for each material (engraving: power / speed / line density / dotting duration and cutting: power / speed / passes).

If you are finding that your design feels pixelated, try increasing your line density. If you want a slightly deeper engrave, try increasing your dotting density.

Spoiler alert: I was not disappointed in any of my finished projects!

3mm Basswood

I started with the 3mm basswood that came with the machine. For this project, I used both the cutting and engraving functions to make this…coaster? Really I was just looking to see how well it did and overall I am really impressed. The only thing I would note here is that the cut line is not completely straight around the edge, because of the angle at which the laser beam hits the material, as I mentioned above.

• Blue diode laser
• Engrave settings: 100 / 158 / 100 / 400
• Cut settings: 100 / 158 / 1
• Time: about 5 minutes

Laser-Safe Faux Leather Patches

I got these great faux leather patches from Heat Transfer Warehouse and I was so impressed with how well the engraved. They do have a black center and it made the contrast between the leather and the engraved area really stand out.

• Blue diode laser
• Engrave settings: 78 / 435 / 100 / 500
• Time: about 2 minutes

This would be a great custom project to have at a craft market—have a few different designs that can be customized with a name along with a bunch of hats, and affix the patch to them after engraving! Instant hat bar.

Slate Coasters

I love engraving slate coasters and the WeCreat made it so fast. The results looked fantastic.

• Blue diode laser
• Engrave settings: 78 / 305 / 100 / 500
• Time: about 5 minutes

Cherry Keychains

Tried a different wood and engraved a cherry keychain. This is another one I think could do really well at a craft fair!

• Blue diode laser
• Engrave settings: 78 / 305 / 100 / 500
• Time: about 40 seconds

Uncoated Metal Necklace Blank

I actually have a few lasers that have IR modules, but overall I haven’t done much with them. That’s because, honestly, I’m just not that into making jewelry. But I decided to see how a metal blank would engrave and I think the results are good. It’s not the same as if you were using stamps into warm metal or anything like that, but overall the engraving is really pretty and I was surprised how much detail I was able to get in a small 1″ blank.

• Red infrared laser
• Engrave settings: NEED SETTINGS
• Time: about 30 seconds

I think I could get an even smoother engraving by increasing the line density, but I only had the single blank!

WeCreat Lumos Pros

For my first time using a laser like this, I was pretty impressed and I can definitely see myself pulling out this laser for small engraving projects vs. using one of my (many) larger lasers. Here are the things I liked:

• Nearly fully assembled and easy to set up
• It’s like a cute little purple and orange robot friend
• Numerous safety features
• Small and portable. It would be perfect for markets or for crafters with limited space
• Easy (and fun) to focus using the dial
• Very fast processing for both the diode and IR lasers
• Very detailed engraving for professional results
• Wide variety of materials, including uncoated metal
• Make even more projects with the rotary tool and extension module

WeCreat Lumos Cons

There were a few things that I didn’t love, but none of these are make or break for me.

• Can’t cut some acrylic colors, including clear, blue, and transparent acrylics. This is true of all diode lasers, not just this machine.
• Some connection issues—had to re-connect occasionally (which, thankfully, doesn’t take very long).
• Small processing area. If you want to make big stuff, this is not the machine to do it.
• You might see an angle to your cuts, especially toward the outside of the processing area.
• I would like a little beep when it’s done processing. Every other laser I have is like “Hey, your project is done!” but there is nothing to indicate the processing has finished with this machine.
• I also wish there was a lens cap warning. Did I try and use the laser while the lens cap was still on? Yes I did. Did it make my craft room smell like melting plastic? Yes it did. Was this completely user error? Yes. But I think it could’ve been avoided if the machine could give me a warning that says “Hey you! Your lens cap is still on!” (Note: if you accidentally do this too, make sure to clean your lens really well from the residue left by the melting lens cap.)

Is the WeCreat Lumos Worth It?

I really like this little laser. Is it for everyone? Nope. But I can definitely see myself batching products for my shop (in particular engraved keychains and earrings). I think the WeCreat Lumos could be a lot of fun at a craft fair because it’s so portable and it processes so quickly. It’s also so easy to move and store, so it could be a great option for those crafters who want to get into laser crafting but who don’t have a lot of space.

I hope you enjoyed this WeCreat Lumos review! If you have any questions about this laser or any of the lasers I have reviewed (or if you have a laser you want me to review in the future!), please leave them down in the comments and I’ll be happy to answer them for you!

The post WeCreat Lumos Review & Guide for Beginners appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

Machine was provided by xTool but all opinions are my own.

I’ve done a lot of laser reviews on my blog, but almost all of them have been diode lasers. I get constant questions about what sort of laser can cut clear acrylic, because a diode laser cannot.

The answer? A CO2 laser. The laser beam itself is a different color than a diode laser (infrared vs. blue) which allows it to cut acrylic colors that a diode laser cannot.

I’ve had a Glowforge Pro CO2 laser for nearly five years and I’ve used it to cut a lot of acrylic—and I do really like it. But I’ve been wanting to review the xTool P2S because I knew it had more features and capabilities than the Glowforge and I’ve had quite a few folks ask me to review it.

So I reached out to xTool, who I’ve worked with a lot in the past, and they were kind enough to send me the new xTool P2S. This is a slight upgrade over their P2 machine, so the majority of this review will function for both machines.

In today’s post, we’re going to go over the basics of the xTool PS2, including some of the specs, important safety features, and the materials it can cut. I’ll also give you my overall pros and cons and who might be the ideal user for this machine.

Let’s dive in to this xTool P2S review!

Video My xTool P2S Review

Watch my full review video about the xTool P2S! If you prefer to read, continue on below this video!

What is the xTool P2S?

The xTool P2S is a 55W CO2 laser crafting machine. You can cut, score, and engrave using the xTool P2S to make all sorts of projects, like signs, jewelry, art, tumblers, party decorations, home decor objects, and more!

Machine Cost

The xTool P2/P2S comes in a few configurations:

• P2 in white – $4999
• P2S in white or gray – $5499

xTool is one of those companies that often has sales, so you should be able to find the machine you want for a bit less during one of their many sales. At the writing of this post, both machines are on sale for $3,999. They do offer financing.

What is a Diode Laser vs. a CO2 Laser?

The xTool P2S is a CO2 laser (the same type of laser as the Glowforge Pro), vs. something machines like the xTool M1 Ultra, the WeCreat Vista, and the Glowforge Aura. Let’s talk a bit about the difference.

A CO2 laser is a more powerful and versatile option compared to a diode laser, making it ideal for serious crafters, small business owners, and those who want to cut and engrave a wider range of materials. While it requires more maintenance and may have a shorter lifespan than a diode laser, the trade-off is significantly higher power and cutting capabilities.

CO2 lasers typically range from 40W to 300W, whereas diode lasers are generally between 5W and 20W, though my xTool S1 is a 40W diode laser. This extra power allows CO2 lasers to cut through thicker materials much faster and with cleaner edges.

And like I said, if you want to work with certain acrylic, a CO2 laser is the way to go—unlike diode lasers, which struggle with clear and light-colored acrylic, a CO2 laser can cut and engrave acrylic in any color.

What’s in the Box?

The box is packed really well and you are definitely going to need a second person (maybe a third) to set up your P2/P2S. It weighs 100 lbs once unpacked and it’s quite large (we’ll get to the size and dimensions below).

Here’s what you’ll find inside:

• xTool P2/P2S machine
• Power cable
• USB-C cable
• USB key (the laser will not run without this, so don’t lose it!)
• Vent pipe and vent pipe connector
• Antifreeze
• Funnel
• Four material clamps
• Various tools you’ll need
• Three sheets of 3mm basswood
• Two sheets of transparent acrylic
• Quick start guide & safety instructions

If you have purchased accessories with your xTool, you may have other parts not listed above. I do have some other accessories for this laser, but I’ll be sharing those in an upcoming post. I wanted this post to show you what you get with the most basic package. You will note that my laser is set up on the riser base—this is a separate purchase but the machine was heavy and I only wanted to set it up once!

Set Up

The xTool P2S is my largest laser. The machine comes almost entirely pre-assembled, which is great. I assembled the riser base (again, a separate part, not included), and then my husband and I got the P2S out of the box and set on the riser base. There are an array of screws and pieces of tape to remove. The Quick Start Guide will walk you through everything.

There was one step that did make me nervous, and that was adding the antifreeze. There was no step like this when setting up my Glowforge, and it involved a bit of math to figure out the combination of antifreeze and water to add to your machine. But once I figured it out, it wasn’t difficult. You will need to remove the back panel off your machine (so make sure you can access it somehow! My laser is on a rolling tool chest) and pour in the antifreeze and water.

Size and Dimensions

The actual dimensions of the machine are:

• Machine dimensions: 39.4″ x 25.1″ x 10.6″ (about 16.5″ tall with the riser base)
• Machine weight: 100 lbs
• Material processing area: 23.6″ x 12″

You will need another 8″ or so of space behind the machine for the exhaust pipe. And you do need at least 20″ of vertical space to account for the lid being opened.

You can also see the size is significantly larger than the Glowforge Pro, especially when on the riser base.

The Anatomy of the xTool P2S

Let’s take a look at the different parts of the machine, so you can be familiar with the machine when you go to use it.

Laser Tube: The laser tube is behind a panel in the back of the machine. It generates the infrared laser beam that powers cutting and engraving.

Laser Module: The laser module is the carriage that runs back and forth in your machine, and it houses the laser.

Mirrors and Lenses: There are mirrors and lenses within the laser module that you will need to occasionally clean for optimum performance.

Laser Bed: The area where you’ll put your projects. In the bed there are removable and reconfigurable slats. You’ll place (most) materials on these slats. The slats allow for airflow around your projects, particularly when cutting. This reduces the chance of flareups.

Cameras: There are two cameras in the laser, which will take a photo of your material so you can accurately place your images.

Air Assist System: Inside the machine is also an air assist system. This blows a steady stream of air over the material, reducing scorching and improving cut quality.

Digital Interface: There is a small digital screen on the laser that shows a readout of temperature and other important data.

Lid: The lid of the machine opens 90° to make it easy to put your materials in the bed of the laser. It has a tinted window, so you can look directly at you projects as they are being processed.

Vent Pipe: Off the back of the machine is the vent pipe. This removes all of the dust and debris from the machine. See the venting section below.

Side connectors: On the left side of the machine, there is a USB-C and Ethernet port. This is how you will connect your machine to your computer for the first time.

Back connectors: On the back of the machine are ports for adding the USB key, the USB dongle if you are using the AP2 filter, the power cord, and more.

Safety

One of the number one things I look for in lasers right now is safety, and the xTool P2S is packed with safety features.

To start, it’s classified as a Class 1 Laser Product, meaning it is considered a safe laser under normal conditions. Here are a few ways that xTool has added safety to the P2S:

• It’s fully enclosed with a tinted lid. You do not need to wear special glasses to watch your project being created.
• You need a USB “key” to operate it. This is a small USB dongle that plugs into the back of the laser. If the key is not plugged in, the laser won’t work. Great if you have curious kids! Just put the key in a safe place and they won’t have access to the laser.
• There is an AI fire detection system that will shut the machine down if a fire is detected.
• The lid locks, so you can’t open it during processing. This is the only laser I own with this feature.
• There’s an emergency button you can hit in case of a problem. I do wish this button was more toward the front of the machine. I don’t love the idea of leaning over a laser that’s having a problem to hit that button.

All of these features make me more comfortable using a laser in our home. I also always have a fire extinguisher and fire blanket, just in case. You can read more about everything I have on hand when I’m using my laser in my post Must-Have Laser Supplies.

Venting

All lasers need to be vented. The laser create fumes and smoke and debris, and you’ll need to vent your laser so all of that doesn’t end up in your craft room and lungs.

There are two options:

• Venting out of a window: you can run the vent pipe out of a window, making sure to seal up the window with an old blanket or piece of cardboard so the smoke doesn’t work its way back inside.
• Venting into a personal filter: if you don’t have access to a window, you can use a personal filter. I HIGHLY recommend the xTool AP2 filter. I didn’t realize you could be in love with a laser filter, but I truly love it. I have a full review on my YouTube channel. This is what I’m using with my xTool P2S.

What can the xTool P2S Cut and Engrave?

So what can you make with the xTool P2S? Lots of projects with lots of materials!

The xTool P2S cuts:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, and more)
• Plywood
• Leather
• MDF
• Felt
• Paper
• All colors of acrylic

The xTool P2S engraves:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, bamboo, and more)
• Plywood
• Leather
• MDF
• Coated metal
• Glass
• Ceramic
• Natural materials like shale, slate, jade, brick, and marble
• Acrylic

This means you can make all sorts of projects, including signs, jewelry, coasters, paper projects, party decorations, dinnerware, home decor projects, games, and more!

What Software Works with the xTool P2S?

You can use either xTool Creative Space or Light Burn with your xTool P2S. I use xTool Creative Space, so that’s all I’m familiar with. But lots of more seasoned laser users use Light Burn and it’s nice that the P2S can be used with an outside software.

Setting up my P2S was very easy within xTool Creative Space. I did need a USB cord for the first connection, and the machine does come with one (remember the USB port is on the left side of the machine. It took me a while to find!). After that first connection, I had no trouble getting it to connect to my WiFi.

In future tutorials, I’ll show you how to make all sorts of projects using this machine!

xTool P2S Pros

The xTool P2S has a lot to like. Here are my pros for this laser:

• Nearly fully assembled and easy to set up
• Numerous safety features, including the fire detection system and locking lid
• Large bed to process big projects
• Better slat system than other xTool lasers
• Can cut all colors of acrylic
• It’s fast and powerful
• Plenty of accessories to help you make the most of your machine (like the riser base and rotary tool)

xTool P2S Cons

There is very little I don’t like about this laser.

• Emergency button is difficult to access on the back of the machine
• It’s very heavy

Is the xTool P2S Worth It?

Absolutely! If you’re looking at getting a CO2 laser, I highly recommend the P2S. It’s well-built, fast, and does everything it claims it can do. Being able to cut clear and other acrylic is a huge advantage over a diode laser. And having the extra add-ons make it very versatile as well. I am very happy with this laser and use it all the time for my small side hustle Chapter & Craft.

I hope you enjoyed this xTool P2S review! If you have any questions about this laser or any of the lasers I mentioned in this post, please leave them down in the comments and I’ll be happy to answer them for you!

The post xTool P2S Review & Guide for Beginners appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

If you’re new to laser crafting, you’re probably wondering what air assist is. This is a feature that comes built-in on some laser machines, and as an add-on to other machines. But…is it necessary?

What is Laser Air Assist?

Air assist is a feature in laser cutting and engraving machines that directs a stream of compressed air onto the material’s surface while it’s cutting, scoring, and engraving. This stream of compressed air has many benefits, which we’ll talk about in this post.

Here are the lasers I have and whether or not they come with air assist:

• xTool P2S – built in, can manually adjust down to 30% but cannot turn off
• xTool S1 – separate adjustable accessory, purchased separately
• xTool M1 – separate adjustable accessory, purchased separately
• xTool M1 Ultra – separate non-adjustable accessory, comes with purchase
• Glowforge Pro – built in, automatically adjusts
• Glowforge Aura – built in, automatically adjusts
• Glowforge Spark – built in, automatically adjusts
• WeCreat Vista – separate non-adjustable accessory, comes with purchase
• WeCreat Vision – separate non-adjustable accessory, comes with purchase

Now you can see why air assist can be confusing to new users! Some machines have it built in, and some it’s a separate accessory. Some you can adjust and some you can’t. It’s definitely not straightforward, so don’t feel bad if you’re confused!

Let’s talk about the benefits of using air assist with your laser.

Benefit #1: Enhanced Performance

The continuous airflow helps dissipate heat more efficiently, allowing for cleaner cuts. Without air assist, the smoke and vaporized material produced during cutting and engraving can settle back onto the surface, leaving behind charring and discoloration. Air assist helps blow away this debris immediately, resulting in cleaner, crisper edges.

Benefit #2: Improved Edge Quality

Air assist minimizes the formation of oxide layers, resulting in cleaner edges without discoloration or residue. In some cases, this allows you to do fewer passes or less power for your projects, saving you both time and wear on your laser.

Benefit #3: Lens Protection

Your laser’s lens is a critical component that directs the laser beam onto your material. Keeping it clean is essential to keep your laser working well. When cutting or engraving, smoke, dust, and tiny particles rise up toward the laser head. If these contaminants settle on the lens, they can block or scatter the laser beam, reducing efficiency and potentially damaging the lens over time.

Air assist helps create a protective barrier by directing airflow downward, keeping smoke and debris away from the lens. This not only extends the lifespan of your lens but also means you don’t have to clean your lens as often.

Benefit #4: Increased Safety

Fire hazards can be a concern when using a laser machine, especially with flammable materials. Without proper airflow, small flare-ups can ignite, leading to fires inside your laser.

Air assist significantly reduces this risk by dispersing heat and pushing flammable particles away from the laser beam. This is particularly important for long or high-powered cuts where heat buildup is more likely. By reducing the chance of flare-ups, air assist makes laser cutting a safer process overall.

When NOT to Use Air Assist

While air assist will generally make your projects better, there may be a handful of projects where you want to turn it off. For example, in forums I’ve read that some people don’t like to have air assist on when engraving on glass, because the airflow can interfere with how the laser is interacting with the glass. Just be aware that for some projects, you may want to do a test with and without the air assist (if that’s possible with your particular laser).

Test, Test, Test

Speaking of testing…as with anything having to do with a laser, using air assist may require testing!

There are some materials and cut settings where you may not need the air assist (like I mentioned above). And there may be some where you lower or increase the amount of air flow based on your project (if that’s a possibility for your machine). If you are still seeing charring while using air assist, make sure there are no kinks in the air hose and you may want to mask your materials.

Do You Need Air Assist?

Technically, no, but I do think it’s one of the best accessories you can get with your laser. Getting cleaner cuts with a safer laser machine is definitely worth the money!

The post Laser Air Assist: What is it and do you need it? appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

I have reviewed seven diode lasers in the last few years and people are always asking me to compare them or tell them which one’s best. So in today’s post, I’m sharing a comparison between all of the seven lasers I actually own. You may find other laser comparisons out there, but often they are from big tech companies and not from someone who has actually used them extensively!

In this post, I am comparing the following lasers, in no particular order. Click on each one to read my full review of that particular laser:

• Glowforge Aura
• Glowforge Spark
• xTool M1
• xTool M1 Ultra
• xTool S1
• WeCreat Vista
• WeCreat Vision

I want to start out by saying that I don’t think there is a truly bad laser in the bunch. There are things I like more on all of these machines, pros and cons, and all sorts of things you need to consider. Do your research but I don’t want you to feel like you’ve made the wrong choice. Diode lasers are similar, and while there are things that set these machines apart from each other, I don’t think you can go wrong with any of these lasers.

We’re going to go through all of the key factors that are important when choosing a laser, including price and value, safety, power and performance, material compatibility, software, unique features, and which are my overall favorites for different types of users.

Watch the Video

Would rather watch a video of my diode laser comparison? Just hit play below! Or keep reading for a written comparison between all of the machines.

What is a Diode Laser?

Before we get into the diode laser comparison, I want to talk a little about what a diode laser is (and what it is not).

There are several types of lasers on the market, including diode, CO2, infrared, and fiber lasers. What makes diode lasers unique is their “spectrum.” Diode lasers are on the visible light spectrum, somewhere in the “blue” wavelength. The other lasers I mentioned are outside the visible spectrum, in infrared spectrum. These different spectrums dictate what types materials will work with the laser.

This is most apparent with the materials a diode laser can cut and engrave. Because the light is blue, a diode laser will struggle (or fail) cut cut and engrave different types of acrylic, including clear, transparent, most blues, and other colors that have a lot of blue pigment in them. This is because the laser will pass right through the material instead of cutting or engraving it.

You can read more in my post How to Cut Acrylic with a Diode Laser. If you want to cut clear/transparent/blue/etc acrylic, then you’ll need to upgrade to a CO2 laser, like a Glowforge Pro or an xTool P2.

Price

A diode laser is generally less expensive than a CO2 laser, making them more affordable for hobbyists and smaller businesses. Here is the retail value for all of the machines I’m comparing, from lowest to highest. Some of these have different options that will change the price—a lower or higher wattage, accessories, etc, but I am using the base model with the wattage that I own so I can give an accurate comparison.

Keep these prices in mind as we get into the features and capabilities of each of these machines later in this video.

xTool and WeCreat often have sales so you get a laser for lower than I have here. Glowforge rarely puts anything on sale, but occasionally they will have deals on shipping and materials.

• Glowforge Spark – $699
• xTool M1 10W – $999
• Glowforge Aura – $1199
• WeCreat Vision 10W – $1199
• xTool M1 Ultra – $1299
• WeCreat Vista 10W – $1399
• xTool S1 40W – $1999

Setup

I have to say, all of these lasers are pretty easy to set up. The laser companies are getting good about giving clear instructions for how to unbox and set up the laser properly.

I think that overall, the Glowforge lasers are the easiest because they have no additional parts or accessories and they are designed for the very beginner. They are basically ready to go, right out of the box.

The other lasers on my list are easy, but you’ll often buy them with add-ons like a riser base or honeycomb tray that makes set up a little more involved.

Overall, though, don’t be intimidated by any of the lasers on this list! You can do it, I promise.

Power

Next up let’s talk power and performance. Many of these lasers come with different “wattages” which is basically their power level. The higher the wattage, the faster and more powerful the laser.

• Glowforge Spark – 6W
• Glowforge Aura – 6W
• xTool M1 – 10W
• WeCreat Vista – 10W
• xTool M1 Ultra – 10W or 20W
• WeCreat Vision – 20W or 40W
• xTool S1 – 10W, 20W, or 40W

In my opinion, 20W is the sweet spot for laser power and performance. It is considerably faster than the lower wattage machines, but is less expensive than the 40W machines.

Cutting Speed

Cutting speed is a little hard to compare for a few reasons. Glowforge doesn’t release information on their cutting speed, and cutting speed on the other machines varies based on the intricacy of your designs. So I am giving a general overview of how quickly I think the machines cut in comparison to one another based on my own use.

• Glowforge Spark – slow
• Glowforge Aura – slow
• xTool M1 Ultra – slow
• WeCreat Vista – medium
• xTool M1 – medium
• WeCreat Vision – medium to fast
• xTool S1 – fast

Slow isn’t necessarily bad if you are just using your machine to make small projects. If you want to start a small laser business, however, I highly recommend getting something a bit faster.

Work Area

The size of the material you can cut will also come into play in your decision. If you are fine making smaller projects, a smaller machine will be just fine. But if you want to make larger projects or batch produce smaller projects, you’ll probably want a machine with a larger working area.

• Glowforge Spark – 8″ x 12″
• xTool M1 Ultra – 11.81″ x 11.81″
• Glowforge Aura – 12″ x 12″
• xTool M1 – 15″ x 12″
• WeCreat Vision – 15.75″ x 10.63″
• WeCreat Vista – 16.34″ x 11.42″
• xTool S1 – 19.61″ x 12.56″

Material Compatibility

Basically all diode lasers can cut and engrave the same types of materials. No matter which laser you choose, you should be able to cut and engrave a wide variety of materials, just some machines will be faster and require fewer passes.

Diode Laser Cutting:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, and more)
• Leather
• MDF
• Felt
• Paper
• Some dark opaque acrylic

Diode Laser Engraving:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, bamboo, and more)
• Leather
• MDF
• Stainless steel, powder coated metal, painted metal, plated metal
• Some dark glass
• Ceramic
• Natural materials like shale, slate, jade, brick, and marble
• Some dark opaque acrylic

Other Materials

The xTool M1 and the xTool M1 Ultra have additional material processing capabilities not found in most other lasers.

• xTool M1 – blade cutting, including laser-safe vinyl, HTV, cardstock, leather, felt, and fabric. Learn more in my xTool M1 overview.
• xTool M1 Ultra – blade cutting, including vinyl, HTV, cardstock, leather, and fabric. Additional blades including a knife blade for thicker materials, a rotary blade for fabric and felt, a pen for writing, a debossing tool for cardstock, and a printing module. Learn more in my xTool M1 Ultra overview.

Software and User Interface

The laser’s capabilities are one thing, but it’s also nice to have a user-friendly software! Glowforge uses the Glowforge App (on desktop, not a phone app), xTool uses xTool Creative Space, and WeCreat uses WeCreat Make It. Laser software does have a small learning curve as you learn the difference between things like Cut, Score, and Engrave as well as how power, speed, and passes work together. But if you follow tutorials and research your material before processing it, you should have pretty good luck.

Overall, I think xTool has the most robust and easy to use software. When I first got my M1 a few years ago, it was a very basic software, but you can tell they have put a lot of time and resources toward making it a truly capable software. Glowforge has some cool features, but they charge extra to use them, and WeCreat’s software is sort of where xTool’s software was a few years ago.

Camera vs. Pinpoint Positioning

Most lasers use a fisheye lens to take a picture of the material in the bed of the machine so you can see where to place your image. This is fine, but it’s not ideal because the fisheye lens distorts your image a bit, especially around the edges.

WeCreat worked around this in their newer machine, the Vista, by placing the camera inside the edge of the lid. Instead of taking a photo of what’s in the bed of your machine while the lid is closed, you take the photo while the lid is open. This allows the camera to take a photo from much higher up, removing the need for a fisheye. Awesome solution.

The xTool M1 Ultra and S1 both did away with the camera entirely and use a pinpoint positioning system. Instead of a camera image, you get a red cross symbol on your canvas and that allows you to place your image exactly where your laser head is. Honestly, I LOVE this system. I’ve used it a lot and I think it’s much more accurate than any camera. That being said, there’s a learning curve and some people really do like a camera better.

Here’s what you’ll get with each laser:

• Glowforge Spark – fisheye camera
• Glowforge Aura – fisheye camera
• WeCreat Vision – fisheye camera
• WeCreat Vista – regular camera (process image while lid is open)
• xTool M1 – 15″ x 12″ – fisheye camera
• xTool M1 Ultra – 11.81″ x 11.81″ – pinpoint positioning
• xTool S1 – 19.61″ x 12.56″ – pinpoint positioning

Safety

All of these machines are safe for use in your craft space because they have a minimum number of safety features.

To start, they are all enclosed machines, meaning that they have a plastic or metal enclosure that helps contain the fumes created by the laser as it’s processing your material.

All of them also have a tinted lid, meaning you can look directly at the laser while it’s processing without harming your eyes.

And all of them have an auto-stop feature if you open the lid of the laser while it’s working.

Then there are a few additional safety features that I like on a few of the machines:

• xTool M1 Ultra – USB key that must be inserted for the machine to work, fire detection system that will shut down the laser if it detects a fire.
• xTool S1 – USB key that must be inserted for the machine to work, fire detection system that will shut down the laser if it detects a fire, emergency stop button on the side of the machine.

Venting

All of these lasers need to be vented. When the laser is cutting, scoring or engraving, it is removing material and creating smoke and fumes that need to be removed from the laser. There are two ways to go about this.

Venting Out a Window

All of these machines can be vented out of a window. Just place the end of the vent pipe out of a window, using a blanket or other surround so the fumes can’t get back in. This is free and a great option if you can place your machine by a window.

Using an Air Filter

Each of these companies also makes their own filters. They are called personal filters, fume extractors, air purifiers and more, but they are all generally the same thing. Remember that xTool and WeCreat often have sales, so you’ll almost never pay the prices I have listed below.

• Glowforge Personal Air Filter – the Glowforge filter for the Spark and Aura is really great. It’s small and easy to move around. It only turns on while the Glowforge is processing, so it doesn’t run unnecessarily. It retails for $399. Replacement filters are $129.
• xTool Fume Extractor – xTool has two options. The first is a heavy fume extractor on wheels. You turn it on manually when your machine is running. It runs for $999 and replacement filters are
• xTool Safety Pro AP2 – The second option is brand new, but I do have it thanks to xTool. This is a six-filter system with cyclone action that helps prevent clogging. It’s linked to your machine so it only runs when your machine is running. It costs $999 but the filters are washable and reusable so you have fewer replacement costs. It’s larger and not on wheels, but I think it’s a better buy than the Fume Extractor.
• WeCreat – I don’t actually have the WeCreat fume extractor, but it’s similar to the xTool Fume Extractor. It’s heavy but it’s on wheels so it’s possible to move it around. It is not linked to the processing on the machine so you will manually have to turn it on and off.

One final thing about venting. Most machines have a metal hose clamp to attach the vent pipe to the back of the machine. I hate them all and find them difficult to use. The xTool M1 Ultra, however, has this awesome clip-on vent pipe with an extra filter. It was a million percent easier to install and allows me to remove it easily from the back of the machine for storage. Five stars for this little improvement.

Air Assist

Air assist is another feature that I really like in a laser. This basically blows air on your project as it is processing, reducing charring and fire risk.

Each of these companies goes about the air assist differently:

• Glowforge Spark – air assist built in
• Glowforge Aura – air assist built in
• WeCreat Vision – air assist separate but included in base price
• WeCreat Vista – air assist separate but included in base price
• xTool M1 – 15″ x 12″ – air assist separate and an add-on cost
• xTool M1 Ultra – 11.81″ x 11.81″ – air assist separate and an add-on cost
• xTool S1 – 19.61″ x 12.56″ – air assist separate and an add-on cost

Unique Features

While each of these machines is a diode laser at its heart, there are unique features of each machine that make them different from the other machines. Here are my favorite unique features of each machine:

• Glowforge Spark – built in air assist, honeycomb tray, small footprint, lowest price.
• Glowforge Aura – built in air assist, honeycomb tray, small footprint, passthrough for larger projects.
• WeCreat Vision – included air assist, auto-rising feature so no riser needed, slate panels for air flow, rotary tool add-on
• WeCreat Vista – included air assist, rotating laser head so no riser needed, slate panels for air flow, rotary tool add-on
• xTool M1 – blade cutting, rotary tool add-on
• xTool M1 Ultra – blade cutting (regular, knife, rotary), debossing, writing with a pen, and printing available (additional modules are extra), additional safety features, easy clip-on vent pipe, riser base add on, rotary tool add-on
• xTool S1 – largest working area, additional safety features, riser base add on, rotary tool add-on, fast enough for small business

Final Recommendations

Like I said at the beginning of this post, I don’t think you can go wrong with any of these machines. They are all capable and relatively easy to use.

For me, my xTool S1 is the machine I head to the most often. It has the largest processing area and I really like the pinpoint positioning system and safety features. Of course, this is also the most expensive machine! If I had to do it over again, I’d probably go for the 20W S1 instead of the 40W S1 that I got and save myself several hundred dollars.

If you are a beginner and just want to be a hobbyist and not expand into a business of any kind, I recommend the Glowforge Spark, or the Glowforge Aura if you want a larger cutting area. They are so easy to set up and Glowforge’s Proofgrade materials make it really easy to make a project without having to do a bunch of testing.

If you’re looking to do more beyond laser cutting and engraving, the xTool M1 Ultra gives you more capabilities. I don’t think this would replace your Cricut or Silhouette cutting machine (they are just purpose built for blade cutting and are so much faster), but if you don’t have one of those machines, the M1 Ultra will give you those capabilities. I recommend the M1 Ultra above the original M1.

And then if you are deciding between the two WeCreat machines, I prefer the Vista. The Vision is just a bit tall when the auto-lifting feature is engaged and anyone shorter than I am (I’m 5’6″) will either need a step stool or a lower table.

I hope this post gave you more information on which diode laser is right for your workspace! If you have any questions about this diode laser comparison, please let me know down in the comments. I’m happy to help you figure out which machine is best for your needs!

The post Diode Laser Comparison: Glowforge, xTool, WeCreat! appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

Earlier this year, I reviewed the WeCreat Vision laser. While I think overall it’s a good laser, especially for beginners, there were just a couple things I didn’t love about it. So when WeCreat reached out to review their newest laser, the WeCreat Vista, I definitely wanted to try it out.

In today’s post, I’m going to give you an overview of the WeCreat Vista, including some of the specs, important safety features, and the materials it can cut. I’ll also give you my overall pros and cons and who might be the ideal user for this machine. And we’ll touch on how it compares to the WeCreat Vision.

Let’s dive in to this WeCreat Vista review!

Watch the Video

Want to get a video overview this new machine? Just hit play below! Or keep reading for a written overview.

What is the WeCreat Vista Laser?

The WeCreat Vista is a diode laser crafting machine, the second machine from WeCreat. You can cut, score, and engrave using the Vista to make all sorts of projects, like tumblers, signs, jewelry, art, party decorations, home decor objects, and more.

This is a lower wattage laser than the WeCreat Vision laser. Compared to 20W/40W of the Vision, the Vista is a 10W laser. This means that it doesn’t have as much power or speed, but 10W is still a good laser for the at-home crafter market and although it’s a bit slower, it was still easily able to cut and engrave the materials I tested.

One thing that makes the WeCreat Vista unique is the rotating laser head. Because you can flip it to process sideways, you do not need a riser base for doing projects like most tumblers. We’ll talk more about this unique feature here in a bit.

The WeCreat is designed to be beginner friendly so if you’re new to the laser crafting world, this is definitely a laser you should add to your list to research.

Machine Cost

The basic 10W WeCreat Vista retails for $1,399.99, however WeCreat products often go on sale! So definitely wait until a common sales time (Black Friday, Memorial Day, etc.) to buy.

There is also a rotary kit increases the number of projects you can make with your laser, including tumblers, mugs, ornaments, rings, baseballs, and more. I have an issue with the rotary tool, which I’ll talk about in a bit.

What is a Diode Laser vs. a CO2 Laser?

The WeCreat Vista is a blue light diode laser vs. a CO2 laser. What’s the difference?

A diode is a less expensive laser than the CO2, making it perfect for everyday crafters who don’t have a larger budget. It’s also more durable than a CO2 laser and has a longer lifespan. They are also generally smaller than CO2 lasers, making it easier for hobbyists to fit one in their craft space.

While it lasts longer and costs less, diode lasers are most often less powerful than CO2 lasers. Diode lasers are generally 5W to 40W, whereas CO2 lasers are 40W to 300W.

The biggest difference is, however, the color of the laser. A diode laser is blue while a CO2 laser is is on the infrared spectrum. Because a diode laser is blue, it will not cut clear, most blue, or other transparent colors of acrylic—the laser passes right through, no matter the wattage. A CO2 laser, however, can cut any color of acrylic. I know this is a big sticking point for many of my readers, so if you want to do the lighter colors of acrylic, you’ll probably want to invest in a CO2 laser. A diode laser like the WeCreat Vista is better for cutting organic materials, like wood and leather, as well as darker opaque acrylic. Read more in my post How to Cut Acrylic with a Diode Laser.

The WeCreat Vista Laser Modules

There are two swappable laser modules for the WeCreat Vista—the 10W module I mentioned above, as well as a 2W IR laser, which is designed to engrave on metal and plastic (not cut). The 2W is an additional purchase at $599, but if you want to make jewelry or other projects where you need to engrave more deeply on materials that don’t work as well with a diode laser, it’s probably a good addition.

The “Flip” Laser Module

Both the 10W module and the 2W IR module are “flippable.” This means that you can actually rotate the laser head 90° so that instead of pointing down, it’s pointing toward the back of the machine. This makes it possible to engrave things like tumblers from the side instead of the top…which also means that for many projects, you don’t need a riser! It’s very easy to flip as well—just unscrew the large screws on the side, flip, and re-screw the screws.

With every other laser I have that I can use to engrave tumblers, I have to use a riser. This is generally an extra cost and one of the reasons people liked the WeCreat Vision (it had an auto-lifting feature vs. the riser).

There may be some projects where you still want to lift up the laser, like full wraps on projects with a handle or bigger wood boxes, etc. For that, the Vista comes with a set of small peg risers. They simply screw into the bottom of the laser frame. Remove the crumb tray and place it on the table and you can engrave even larger projects.

What’s in the Box?

The Visa box is packed really well, but still use caution when opening it. There should be easy instructions for getting it out of the box and unpacked—it was super easy. Even though it’s on the smaller side, you’ll probably want to have a family member or friend on hand to help you unpack it.

Here’s what you’ll find inside:

• WeCreat Vista machine
• Laser module installed in the machine
• Two laser bed pieces
• Air assist set with tube
• Detachable tray
• Power cord and adapter
• Vent pipe, exhaust hose, and exhaust hose connector
• USB cord and USB adapter for USB-C computers
• Screwdrivers, hex key, and wrench
• Mini level
• Grease
• Extra screws
• User manual

If you have purchased accessories with your WeCreat laser (including the rotary kit I mentioned before), you may have other parts not listed above.

Size and Dimensions

The WeCreat Vision weighs about 30 pounds, which I can move but it’s not easy. Again, you may want a second person to help you move it around.

The machine comes almost entirely pre-assembled, which is great. I removed all of the styrofoam and added the exhaust tube to the back. I also installed the air assist (which just had me plug in two tubes and a cable, very easy). It only took me 10 minutes to set up—probably the fastest of any of my lasers.

The actual dimensions of the machine are:

• Machine dimensions: 25.31″ x 18.54″ x 6.53″ (19″ tall when the lid is fully open)
• Machine weight: 30 lbs
• Material area: 16.34″ x 11.42″ for the 10W and 15.55″ x 10.63″ for the 2W IR.

You will need another 8″ or so of space behind the machine for the exhaust pipe and cables.

Safety

The safety features for the Vista are the same as the Vision. I’m always looking for good safety features because I want to make sure I’m keeping both myself and our house safe.

To start, it’s classified as a Class 1 Laser Product, meaning it is considered a safe laser under normal conditions. There is a sticker showing that if you override the lid and use the laser with the lid open, it becomes a Class 4 Laser Product, which is dangerous. So, basically, don’t do that. Always use the laser with the lid closed.

Here are a few more ways that WeCreat has added safety to the Vista:

• It’s fully enclosed with an eye-friendly orange cover. You do not need to wear special glasses to watch your project being processed.
• The laser case is a robust fire-retardant full-metal enclosure.
• If you open the lid, the laser automatically stops.

These features make me comfortable using the WeCreat Vista in my studio.

Venting

Your Vista needs to be vented. When processing, the laser produces fumes and smoke and you’ll need to vent your laser so all of that doesn’t end up in your working space and lungs. The Vista comes with the vent pipe itself, but for actually getting rid of what’s coming through the pipe, you have two options:

• Venting out of a window: you can run the vent pipe out of a window, making sure to seal up the window with an old blanket or piece of cardboard so the smoke doesn’t work its way back inside. This is what I am using for my Vista, along with the WeCreat Booster Fan to help propel all of the smoke out of my studio.
• Venting into a personal filter: if you don’t have access to a window, you can use the WeCreat Smoke Fume Extractor (you may also see this referred to as a filter or smoke filter by other brands) to vent your machine. It’s more expensive and requires new filters occasionally, but it’s good for spaces without access to a window.

What Can the WeCreat Vista Cut and Engrave?

Even though it has a less powerful laser, the WeCreat Vista can cut basically the same things as the WeCreat vision and most other diode lasers.

10W Cutting:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, and more)
• Leather
• MDF
• Felt
• Paper
• Some opaque acrylic (again, see my post How to Cut Acrylic with a Diode Laser for details)

10W Engraving:

• Wood (including basswood, pine, cherry, walnut, birch, bamboo, and more)
• Leather
• MDF
• Stainless steel, painted metal, plated metal
• Powder coated metal
• Dark glass
• Ceramic
• Natural materials like shale, slate, jade, brick, and marble
• Some opaque acrylic

2W IR Engraving:

• Metal (gold, silver, copper, platinum, stainless steel, and more)
• Plastic
• Some opaque acrylic

This means you can make all sorts of projects, including signs, jewelry, coasters, paper projects, party decorations, dinnerware, home decor projects, games, and more!

WeCreat Vista Software

You can use either WeCreat MakeIt or Light Burn with your Vision. I am using WeCreat MakeIt, so that’s all I’m familiar with. But lots of more seasoned laser users use Light Burn and it’s nice that the Vision can be used with an outside software.

Setting up my Vista was very easy within MakeIt. I did need a USB cord for the first connection, and the machine does come with one. I really appreciated the addition of a tiny adapter that takes USB to USB-C for those of us with newer Mac computers that don’t have a regular USB port.

The software is fairly basic but it gets the job done. More than likely, you won’t be doing detailed design work within the software. It’s more to either cut shapes or text, or to upload designs you’ve made or purchased elsewhere.

If you’re new to laser software, it may take you a bit of time to figure out where everything is, but overall it’s pretty simple.

Special Features

There are a few unique features that I think makes the WeCreat different from other similar diode machines currently on the market.

Flip Laser

I mentioned this before, but instead of having a riser, there is a flippable laser module. This allows you to engrave tumblers and other projects from the side, vs. overhead.

I think the concept of this is really great and I was excited to have a machine with a smaller profile and no riser. But there is an issue where the laser itself can’t engrave as far to the side as it needs. So for example, I wanted to engrave a mug, but it couldn’t engrave more than half of the mug.

This may not matter if you are using a smaller image on a larger tumbler. I chatted with WeCreat and their best option was to buy extender pieces so that your mug is farther away from the rotary tool. Right now you can only buy them third party on places like Etsy. I am hoping that in the future, WeCreat will ship those pieces along with the rotary tool so that the tool is fully functional.

Overhanging Camera

While many other lasers have a camera, I like the innovation that WeCreat used on this machine. Instead of having a fisheye lens on the camera and taking a photo of what’s in the bed of your machine while the lid is closed, the camera is actually at a 45° angle at the front of the lid.

When you refresh your bed image, you do it with the lid of the laser open and the camera overhanging the bed of the laser. This means that camera is much farther above the material than in other lasers. This also means that there is no warping since it’s a regular lens and not a fisheye. Overall this takes a much more accurate photo of your material so you can lay out your projects more precisely.

Air Assist

Another accessory that comes standard with the WeCreat Vista that costs extra on some of the other diode lasers is the Air Assist. This is a tool that basically blows air across your project as it is engraving and cutting. It helps reduce charring and gives you a cleaner final project.

This one was easy to install and turns on and off with the machine and definitely makes a difference when it comes to the quality of your projects. And again, it’s not an extra cost, which is great.

Slate Panels

The Slate Panels are what allows air flow below materials you are cutting. In other machines, similar accessories might be called the crumb tray, the honeycomb tray, or the triangle prisms.

I still think the slate panels are the best of all the options in all of my lasers. There are only two pieces and they stay put when you insert them. They are also easy to take in and out of the machine, which can’t be said for basically any of the other options.

Using the WeCreat Vista

Making a project with the WeCreat Vista is pretty much identical to using the WeCreat Vision, except that the lid is open when you’re taking your bed photo. Check out my review of the WeCreat Vision to make this super cute basswood frame with the material that comes in the box!

I hope you found this review of the WeCreat Vista helpful in your buying decisions. If you have any questions about this laser or any of the other lasers I have, please leave those in the comments!

The post WeCreat Vista Flip Laser Review & Guide for Beginners appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

Engraving tumblers using a rotary tool on a laser is fairly straightforward. You can read how to do it using an xTool laser in my post How to Use the xTool RA2 Rotary Attachment. I won’t be going into the actually steps for setting up to engrave a tumbler—make sure to read that post first!

I say engraving tumblers easy…until you notice that your tumbler has a logo on it. And you want to do a full wrap design. Or you want to avoid the logo while doing a smaller image. It’s not exactly straightforward, but I’ve come up with a pretty good system for making sure I get it right the first time. Making tumblers is not cheap, so you don’t want to waste them!

Important: This tutorial is done within the xTool Creative Space program for my xTool S1. This should, however, work similarly for other machines with a rotary tool. My preference is actually to do this in Adobe Illustrator and then upload, but I wanted to give you an easy and free option that will work with your xTool laser.

You can see that my particular tumbler has two different logos—the wordmark and the graphic element. We’ll be working around both of these for this project.

This tutorial is dependent on the size of your tumbler or other projects. For example, many tumbler wraps you can purchase are for Stanley 40oz tumblers. Most of these designs will have a place in the design removed for the logo. You can use parts of this tutorial to correctly place the design so it won’t engrave over the logo.

Watch the Video

This tutorial is really helpful when shown on video! Just hit play below to watch. Or keep reading for a written overview.

Measure Your Tumbler

We’re going to start by making a template. This will allow you to see just how big your design needs to be for your specific tumbler, along with where we need to place our logos. This should work with just about anything you need to engrave, including tumblers, mugs, and more. You will need to adjust how you make your template based on your own project (don’t use my measurements!).

Start by measuring your tumbler. You want both the height where you will be engraving, as well as the circumference. For my tumbler, the height is 6.25″ and the circumference is 9.25″.

You’ll also want to measure the sizes of your logo AND the placement when it comes to the height of the tumbler

So I have the following:

• Height: 6.25″
• Circumference: 9.25″
• Thermoflask wordmark: 2.25″ tall by .25″ wide
• Snowflake element: .75″ tall by .625″ wide
• Thermoflask wordmark distance from the bottom of the engraving space: .75″
• Snowflake element distance from the top of the engraving space: .75″

If it’s helpful, you can draw a quick sketch of what you need to re-create in xTool Creative Space. It does NOT need to be accurate, you just need it as a reference.

Create Your Template

Open xTool Creative Space and set the mode on the right to Use Rotary Attachment. I like to zoom out as well.

Now we’re going to re-create the sketch in xTool Creative Space using rectangles. You can change the size of any rectangle you create in the right panel. Make sure to “unlock” the dimensions so you can change the height and width separately.

Note that because of the way my xTool engraves, I once I have my template, I have to rotate it 90° to the right. The top of my tumbler is on the right and the bottom of my tumbler is on the left.

You can see I have a big rectangle showing the entire engraving area, rectangles for both logos, AND the .75″ spacers I’ve added to know where exactly my logos go in relation to the top and bottom of my tumbler. Note that your logos do NOT need to be in the center of your larger box! You can do them at any point along the box, you just need to line it up in the laser properly, like I’ll show later in this post.

Then you can delete the spacer rectangles (keep the logo rectangles!) and add your design. For this example, I have just used a bunch of plant images that I have spaced around my logos. Remember, do NOT cover any logo boxes you have made. If you have a premade design, work it around the boxes.

Note that for my design, I do have some of my leaves going off the sides of my rectangle (which are at the top and bottom of the image in Creative Space, because my design is rotated 90°). If you look at both sides, you’ll see that where the leaves go out of my rectangle, there’s space for them on the other side. This means I won’t have an obvious gap on the back of my tumbler where the two sides of my design come together. It takes a bit of practice to get this right (and I have definitely gotten it wrong), but if you can make it work, it’s great on the final project.

Placing the Design on the Tumbler

Now place your tumbler in your laser with the logo facing up.

In my xTool S1, I can use the laser positioning system to know exactly where my laser is at all times. I placed the laser right over the top of my tumbler and I see that positioning as a red cross in Creative Space.

If you are doing this with a camera, you will need to place your design over the image, making sure the template lines up with the logos on the actual tumbler.

Then back in Creative Space, I can move my design so that the logo spaces are lined up with my red cross. Note that I am lining up my actual tumbler box (the height and circumference box), NOT the bounding box.

Once you have it lined up, delete your rectangles for the logos and your tumbler box.

Then, depending on your design, you may want to weld all of the individual pieces into a single engrave piece using the first option in the combine panel on the right.

This will help reduce the file size and processing time for the image. You can see now that there is a single object in the layers panel on the left vs. a bunch of individual leaves.

Now select the image and set your processing parameters. I have found that a power of 60, a speed of 400, and a lines per cm of 180 consistently gives me good results on most powder coated tumblers.

Then finally, measure the distance of your project inside your machine. Other machines may call this auto-focus, but it’s done with a physical mechanism in my xTool S1. Basically it’s measuring the distance from the laser to the top-most point of your project.

Now you’re ready to make your project! Click Go to Process in the lower right. If everything looks good, click start and you can press the button on your machine to engrave your project!

Clean your tumbler using warm water and a magic eraser and you’re done!

I hope you found this tutorial to engrave around a logo with your laser helpful! If you have any questions or need help troubleshooting, leave me a comment!

Print

HOW TO LASER ENGRAVE AROUND A LOGO ON A TUMBLER

Learn how to engrave around a logo on a tumbler using a laser machine! This tutorial will walk you through how to measure your tumbler or other project correctly so you don't engrave over the top of the logo.

Keyword Engrave, Laser

Author Cori George

Equipment

• xTool S1 Laser
• Magic eraser

Ingredients

• Tumbler

Instructions

• You can read how to do it using an xTool laser in this post How to Use the xTool RA2 Rotary Attachment. These instructions will not be going into the actual steps for setting up to engrave a tumbler—make sure to read that post first!

  Important: This tutorial is done within the xTool Creative Space program using the xTool S1. This should, however, work similarly for other machines with a rotary tool.

  This tutorial is dependent on the size of your tumbler or other projects. For example, many tumbler wraps you can purchase are for Stanley 40oz tumblers. Most of these designs will have a place in the design removed for the logo. You can use parts of this tutorial to correctly place the design so it won't engrave over the logo.
• Measure Your Tumbler

  We're going to start by making a template. This will allow you to see just how big your design needs to be for your specific tumbler, along with where we need to place our logos. This should work with just about anything you need to engrave, including tumblers, mugs, and more. You will need to adjust how you make your template based on your own project (don't use the measurements in these instructions!).

  Start by measuring your tumbler. You want both the height where you will be engraving, as well as the circumference. For this tumbler, the height is 6.25" and the circumference is 9.25".
  
• 
• You'll also want to measure the sizes of your logo AND the placement when it comes to the height of the tumbler
• So for this tumbler, we have the following:

  Height: 6.25"

  Circumference: 9.25"

  Thermoflask wordmark: 2.25" tall by .25" wide

  Snowflake element: .75" tall by .625" wide

  Thermoflask wordmark distance from the bottom of the engraving space: .75

  "Snowflake element distance from the top of the engraving space: .75"

  If it's helpful, you can draw a quick sketch of what you need to re-create in xTool Creative Space. It does NOT need to be accurate, you just need it as a reference.
  
• Create Your Template

  Open xTool Creative Space and set the mode on the right to Use Rotary Attachment. Zoom it out if you like.

  Now we're going to re-create the sketch in xTool Creative Space using rectangles. You can change the size of any rectangle you create in the right panel. Make sure to "unlock" the dimensions so you can change the height and width separately.
  
• Note that because of the way the xTool engraves, once the template was ready, it had to be rotated 90° to the right. The top of the tumbler is on the right and the bottom of the tumbler is on the left.

  You can see there is a big rectangle showing the entire engraving area, rectangles for both logos, AND the .75" spacers were added to know where exactly the logos go in relation to the top and bottom of the tumbler.

  Note that your logos do NOT need to be in the center of your larger box! You can do them at any point along the box, you just need to line it up in the laser properly, as shown later in these instructions.
  
• Then you can delete the spacer rectangles (keep the logo rectangles!) and add your design. For this example, For this project a bunch of plant images were used and were spaced around the logos. Remember, do NOT cover any logo boxes you have made. If you have a premade design, work it around the boxes.
  
• Note that for this design, there are some of leaves going off the sides of the rectangle (which are at the top and bottom of the image in Creative Space, because the design is rotated 90°).

  If you look at both sides, you'll see that where the leaves go out of the rectangle, there's space for them on the other side. This means there won't be an obvious gap on the back of thee tumbler where the two sides of the design come together. It takes a bit of practice to get this right but if you can make it work, it's great on the final project.
  
• Placing the Design on the Tumbler

  Now place your tumbler in your laser with the logo facing up.
  
• In the xTool S1, you can use the laser positioning system to know exactly where the laser is at all times. Here, the laser was placed right over the top of the tumbler and you can see that positioning as a red cross in Creative Space.

  If you are doing this with a camera, you will need to place your design over the image, making sure the template lines up with the logos on the actual tumbler.

  Then back in Creative Space, the design was moved so that the logo spaces were lined up with the red cross. Note that the actual tumbler box is being lined up (the height and circumference box), NOT the bounding box.
  
• Once you have it lined up, delete your rectangles for the logos and your tumbler box.
  
• Then, depending on your design, you may want to weld all of the individual pieces into a single engrave piece using the first option in the combine panel on the right.
  
• This will help reduce the file size and processing time for the image. You can see now that there is a single object in the layers panel on the left vs. a bunch of individual leaves.
  
• Now select the image and set your processing parameters. A power of 60, a speed of 400, and a lines per cm of 180 consistently gives good results on most powder coated tumblers.
  
• Then finally, measure the distance of your project inside your machine. Other machines may call this auto-focus, but it's done with a physical mechanism in the xTool S1. Basically it's measuring the distance from the laser to the top-most point of your project.
  
• Now you're ready to make your project! Click Go to Process in the lower right. If everything looks good, click start and you can press the button on your machine to engrave your project!
  
• Clean your tumbler using warm water and a magic eraser and you're done!
  

The post How to Laser Engrave Around a Logo on a Tumbler appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.