When working with heat transfer vinyl (HTV), DTF transfers, sublimation, and white toner printing, choosing the right protective sheet can make all the difference in the quality and success of your project. But there are a lot of options—do you want butcher paper (and what color?), parchment paper, a teflon sheet, or wax paper? It can be confusing and I get a lot of questions on what to use.

The right sheet protects your design and your press, ensures even heat distribution, and prevents damage to your projects. In today’s post, we’ll explore the best options for your specific needs. To be perfectly honest, I have three out of the four on hand at all times since they work in different ways!

Watch the Video

Want to get a video overview of all of the protective sheet options? Just hit play below! Or keep reading for a written explanation!

Wax Paper

Put that back in your kitchen, my friend! Wax paper is coated in wax (I know, shocking) so it shouldn’t be used for heat press crafting. The was will melt, ruining your project and potentially your press!

Teflon Sheet

Let’s start with the teflon sheet. A teflon sheet is a heat-resistant, non-stick sheet made from polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), which is commonly known as teflon. You can even get a teflon sheet cover for the top of your heat press. Because it’s non-stick, it’s great for many crafting applications…but not all of them!

Teflon Sheet Best Uses

• Ideal for HTV. Use for a post-press after you have peeled back the carrier sheet.
• Can be used with white toner printing, but most professionals suggest parchment paper instead.

Teflon Sheet Pros

• Reusable and durable for long-lasting use.
• Non-stick surface.
• Provides even heat distribution.
• Easy to clean if needed.

Teflon Sheet Cons

• Holds in moisture, which is particularly bad for sublimation.
• Can permanently stain with sublimation, which can then transfer the design to future projects.
• Higher initial cost compared to disposable options.

Butcher Paper

Butcher paper is exactly what it sounds like: it’s a paper that butchers use for wrapping pieces of meat for you take home from the deli.

Butcher paper is uncoated and usually comes in white or brown. I recommend using white so you don’t have any color transfer on your projects. It also comes in rolls or in sheets. I love the 12×12 sheets—they are perfect for most projects and I don’t have to deal with the paper curling.

Butcher Paper Best Uses

• Ideal for pressing sublimation prints and DTF transfers.
• Can be used with HTV or white toner printing, but it may stick.

Butcher Paper Pros

• Protects your heat press from sublimation ink transfer.
• Uncoated surface won’t leave anything behind.
• Inexpensive and widely available.

Butcher Paper Cons

• Generally single use for sublimation if there is any ink transfer (can be used more times for DTF transfers).

Parchment Paper

While it looks a lot like butcher paper, parchment paper is actually coated with a very thin layer of silicone, making it non-stick. This is why it’s so great for baking cookies—they slide right off! Parchment paper has some good crafting applications as well.

Parchment Paper Best Uses

• Ideal for the first press with a white toner print. It won’t stick to the toner.
• Can be used with DTF transfers, but butcher paper is even less expensive so that’s my preference.
• Can be used with HTV.

Parchment Paper Pros

• Non-stick surface.
• Inexpensive and widely available.
• Can be used many times.

Parchment Paper Cons

• Holds in moisture, which is particularly bad for sublimation.
• Not as durable as a teflon sheet and has limited reusability.

Wax Paper

Wondering if you can substitute wax paper for any of the above? Don’t! Wax plus heat = a totally sticky mess. Wax paper is not suitable for any heat transfer project and has the potential to ruin both your project and your heat press. Put that back in the kitchen cabinet and only use it for food applications where it makes sense.

By Application Type!

Let’s break it down by which type of craft you are doing:

• HTV: Teflon sheet or parchment paper
• Sublimation: butcher paper
• DTF transfer: Teflon sheet or butcher paper (can use parchment paper in a pinch)
• White toner print: parchment paper

I hope this post helped you decide on the best protective sheet for your project! As always, if you have any questions, let me know down in the comments.

The post Choosing the Best Protective Sheet for Your Heat Transfer Project appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

Along with the release of the xTool M1 Ultra, xTool has also released a set of new smart heat presses. This includes a handheld heat press, a mini heat press, a control box, and a platform stand. Together, this set is different than anything else I’ve seen on the market. You can buy everything in an all-in-one kit, or you can buy different pieces of the kit separately depending on your needs.

When I unboxed my xTool heat presses, my husband said they looked like they came from IKEA and I totally agree. There’s definitely a squared-off minimalist feel, plus the white and wood tones make it feel like it should have some sort of Swedish name with some umlauts or something. Overall, I think it looks really nice…but how well does it work?

Watch the Video

Want to get a video review of the xTool Heat Press? Just hit play below! Or keep reading for a written overview.

The Parts of the xTool Heat Press

There are four main parts to the xTool heat press all-in-one kit.

• Smart Press
• Mini Press
• Platform
• Control Box

The kit also comes with a pressing mat. The mat is nice and firm (firmer than the Cricut EasyPress mat), which is good for projects like sublimation and DTF prints.

Let’s take a look at each of the pieces individually.

The xTool Smart Press

The xTool Smart Press is a handheld heat press machine similar to a Cricut EasyPress. It has two handles and zero controls except for a power button on the back. The controls are actually in the control box instead of on the machine itself. You can’t use the Smart Press without the control box. There is also a safety base.

There is an indicator light on the top of the press that goes from yellow to green once your heat press is to temperature.

The Smart Press is 12″ x 10″ which is a great size for most projects. The mat that comes with it is slightly larger than the press itself.

To use the press, you’ll attach the plug to the back and plug in one of the little gray receivers. This receiver allows the control panel to “talk” to the Smart Press so you can set your time and temperature settings. See below for pairing and using the control panel.

Once your heat press is to temperature, you can press your project using the press and the mat! Every project will have a different time, temperature, and pressure setting depending on the type of project. For this press, you will need to apply your own pressure.

The xTool Smart Press Platform

The Smart Press Platform turns your handheld press into a traditional heat press. There was a small amount of assembly at the beginning (four screws) but it took less than five minutes.

On the Smart Press, there is a plastic cover on the top of the press. In one of the corners, there is an arrow. Press the arrow to remove the plastic cover.

Then add the plastic bracket using the four provided screws.

The bracket then slides into the slots on the platform.

There is a cord loop on the back of the column. Press the cord into the cord loop to keep it out of the way while you are pressing.

This is a swing away press. That means that the top heat plate swings away from the bottom plate. This is different than a clamshell press, which opens at an angle above the bottom plate. You will need space on at least one side of your heat press to allow for the swinging motion.

Then add the mat to the bottom of the platform. You may need to swing the press away from the platform or lessen the pressure. I do wish there was something to hold the mat still—I may add some sort of tacky adhesive strips to keep it in place.

To change the pressure on the heat press, turn the pressure control knob at the top of the column. To add more pressure, turn the knob clockwise. To decrease the pressure, turn the knob counterclockwise.

And then again, to set the heat press’s time and temperature you’ll use the control panel, which I talk about below. Note that the control panel doesn’t automatically start when you close the press like you would find with other heat presses. You need to push the button to start the countdown.

The xTool Mini Press

The xTool Mini Press functions a lot like the Cricut EasyPress Mini with one big difference. While you can use the button on the front to set your temperature as low, medium, and high, you can also use the mini press with the control panel to set a particular time and temperature.

Plug the receiver into the handle of the mini press. Then see below for pairing instructions and control panel use.

Once your mini press is to temperature, you can press your project! Every project will have a different time, temperature, and pressure setting depending on the type of project. For this press, you will need to apply your own pressure.

It’s nice to be able to have more control over the temperature of the press. For example, I love using my Cricut EasyPress Mini to fuse my perler beads, but the optimal temperature would be somewhere between the medium and high settings. With the xTool Mini Press, I can actually set that particular temperature (about 360°) and it works really well for that specific application.

The Smart Control Panel

Like I said above, you can use the Smart Control Panel with both the larger press (required) and the mini press (optional). The control panel is wireless, meaning it is both wireless to the machines and it has a battery. The battery does need to be charged via a USB cable, but once it’s charged you do not need to be plugged in, allowing you to use the control panel wherever works best for you. There is a battery indicator in the corner of the display so you can see when you might need to charge it next.

On the back of the control panel are two sliders. One turns the control panel on and off and the other swaps between Fahrenheit and celsius.

To Pair the Control Panel to Your Press

On the receiver in the machine, you’ll see that it has a solid blue light when it’s plugged in. Hold down the button on the receiver for about three seconds and the light should start to blink.

Turn on the control panel using the slider on the back and hold down the round button on the front of the control panel for three seconds. This should pair your machine. The light on the receiver should blink slowly to show that it is paired.

Setting the Control Panel

To set your time and temperature, simply turn the knobs on the control panel.

There are four presets you can set as well. xTool has set four common options, but you can set your own. To set a preset, set your time and temperature using the knobs. Then hold down the button with the three dots until it sets.

To start the timer, just push the round button and it will start to count down.

Pros of the xTool Heat Press

The whole all-in-one kit is really versatile, allowing you to use each piece in various ways depending on your needs. You can choose what’s best for your particular project without having to have quite as many machines around your craft space.

Without the stand, I like the the press has two handles. I feel like it’s easier to get firm, even pressure when using it as a handled press.

I really like that the mat is firmer than other pressing mats. This also makes it easier to get that firm, even pressure—which is particularly important with things like sublimation and DTF printing.

With the stand, there’s no need to apply pressure to your projects, freeing you up to be doing other things while your project is pressing. This is particularly good if you are making something with a long pressing time (like ceramic coasters) or if you have issues maintaining the pressure of an handheld press.

It’s very easy to set the time and temperature using the external control piece. While I really like my clamshell heat press, the controls are behind the arm of the heat press and it can be a bit difficult to set the controls.

I love that the mini press can be used with the control panel, allowing you both to control the temperature of your press and give you a time countdown. I haven’t seen this in any other mini press.

The plug is separate from the Smart Press (unlike many other handheld presses), making it easier to store the press and the cord.

It’s also very affordable compared to other heat presses. You can get the all-in-one kit for just $299, which is a great price for three heat presses in one.

Cons of the xTool Heat Press

I wish the receiver for the control panel was built into the machine. While there’s really no reason to unplug it, it does feel like a part that could easily get lost.

When using the platform, the heat press feels a bit loosey goosey. Not terribly, but it doesn’t lock into place quite like I wish it would.

When on the stand, the timer doesn’t automatically start when you close the heat press like with other heat presses.

Because the base of the heat press sits on four feet, there is no way to thread your blank onto the heat press.

There is not a lot of room at the throat of the heat press for things like hoodies or other bulky items.

The press may not work well for heavy pressure projects.

Is the xTool Heat Press Worth It?

Overall, I think the xTool Heat Press is a good beginner press, especially at the price. You get a lot of functionality in one product and it’s very easy to use. I really like the external control panel and how it can be used with the mini press. Overall, I think it’s a great addition to your xTool M1 Ultra, because it allows you to adhere the HTV you might cut using the blade in your machine.

If you are looking to do heavy-pressure projects or if you want a more professional heat press for a business, however, I might upgrade to something like a clamshell press.

I hope you found this review of the xTool Heat Press helpful in your buying decisions! If you have any questions about this heat press, as always, I’d be happy to answer them down in the comments.

The post xTool Heat Press All-In-One Kit Review appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

My Cricut Mug Press is one of my favorite things in my craft room, but recently a friend was talking about how expensive it is. She’s not wrong! At full price, it’s a $200 press! You can easily find it for $179 and occasionally on sale for $149, but that’s still a lot for many people to spend on a press that is pretty much good for only one thing.

So I went to Amazon and grabbed a bargain press for less than $80. That’s basically half the price of the Cricut Mug Press. The pink one I bought quickly went out of stock, so I have linked to a very similar teal mug press (this happens often with random things from Chinese sellers—just search for “mug press” if this one is out of stock!).

Now let’s put both of these mug presses to the test using a sublimation print!

Watch the Video

Want to see both of these mug presses in action? Click play below, or keep reading for a written tutorial!

Supplies Needed

Get all the supplies for this mug press comparison in my Amazon Store!

• Cricut Mug Press
• Amazon Mug Press
• Sublimation printer with sublimation ink
• Sublimation paper
• Heat-resistant tape
• Heat-resistant gloves
• Butcher paper
• Sublimation design (see below)

Preparing Your Mug

Print out your mug design. You are going to prepare your mug the same way, no matter which mug press you are using. Lint roll your mug (or use alcohol and a microfiber cloth) to remove any dust or lint.

Wrap your design around the mug and adhere with heat-resistant tape. You do not want any gaps or air pockets—make sure the paper is fully against the mug. You can choose to tape the top and bottom, but I generally don’t when making mugs.

Then wrap again with two to three pieces of butcher paper. This will protect the press’s plate from any ink that escapes.

Using the Cricut Mug Press

Plug in the Cricut Mug Press and allow it to come to temperature. There are no time or temperature settings on the Cricut Mug Press. They have been dialed in by Cricut to be used with Infusible Ink and sublimation prints. There is also no pressure setting—when you close the press, it applies the pressure for your blank.

When the press beeps and the light is green, lift up the lid-like handle on the right of the machine.

Carefully slide your mug into press.

Then press down on the handle as you are closing, making sure the handle is centered as you close it. You may need to shift the handle slightly as you close to make sure it’s not off-center.

The time will count down automatically. You can see how far along it is in its process by looking at the progress lights on the top of the machine. It’s generally around six minutes.

When it beeps, lift up the handle and remove your mug. The handle should be cool, but the mug itself will be HOT. You may want to wear heat-resistant gloves just to be safe. Set it on a heat-resistant surface to cool. When the mug is cool enough to touch, remove the butcher paper and the transfer!

Using the Bargain Mug Press

To start, the bargain mug press comes with a few things that I recommend you put directly into the trash can. The first is some yellow heat-resistant tape that may leave yellow marks on your projects. I find yellow tape to be hit or miss, so I always stick to blue tape. And the second is a set of heat resistant gloves. I tried using these heat resistant gloves and they actually melted onto my mug and left little wax (?) spots all over my mug. So, those went right in the bin. I hate wasting things, but they were truly unusable.

Unlike the Cricut Mug Press, you’ll need to set the time, temperature, and pressure manually with the bargain mug press. There are three options for temperature: 320°F, 356°F, and 392°F. Generally you’ll be using the 392°F for mugs.

There are also two time settings. I am not sure if the mug press is supposed to beep with the time is up, but mine never did, despite setting it to 300 seconds and then timing that length of time on my phone. If you are using this press, you may want to set your own timer!

There’s a locking bar at the top of the press. Squeeze the handles slightly to unhook that bar. You’ll want to set the pressure so that when you close the mug press, the hook on the locking bar goes into the slot and holds the press closed.

You’ll use the clamp on the back to adjust the pressure. Because you can adjust the pressure manually, this means you can make a wider variety of mug sizes than the Cricut Mug Press.

Insert your mug into the mug press. I find it just a bit clunkier to work than the Cricut Mug Press because the locking bar at the top can be in the way of getting the mug in right. Then close the press so the hook on the locking bar catches in the slot.

The timer *should* count down your pressing time, though mine never beeped (so set your own timer, just so you don’t forget your mug!). I noticed that the mug handle in this press is much hotter than the Cricut Mug Press, so you’ll probably want those heat-resistant gloves. Set your mug to cool on a heat-resistant surface and remove the transfer when you’re ready!

Mug Press Comparison

Overall, both presses did a good job pressing my mug, except for the bottom corners. You can see here that the bargain mug press (right) didn’t press my bottom corners quite press the corners as well as the Cricut Mug Press (left). You could tape those corners to try and get a better transfer, but there also might be a cool spot the press that doesn’t get hot enough to sublimate the image well.

The images were otherwise identical and pressed nicely.

In the end, I found the Cricut Mug Press to be easier to use than the bargain mug press, but with the considerable price difference, it might be worth the extra hassle to pay less.

I will also say that both machines have that fishy “sublimation smell” but the bargain mug press was a lot worse than the Cricut Mug Press. That being said, I’ve had my Cricut Mug Press since it was launched in 2021, so maybe some of that smell has dissipated since then.

Let’s look at my overall pros and cons in this mug press comparison:

I hope you found this mug press comparison helpful! I do love my Cricut Mug Press, but I also understand it’s not in everyone’s budget. I wish I could recommend the bargain mug press a bit more, but with those faded corners I definitely have reservations. If you are only doing single images and not entire wraps, however, that might not be an issue at all!

If you have either of these presses, I’d love to know what you think down below!

The post Mug Press Comparison: The Cricut Mug Press vs. A Bargain Press appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

If you have a heat press, you may think it’s pretty straightforward to use. Add your project to the press…and press. And, to be honest, most projects really are that simple! But in today’s post I wanted to share some of my favorite ways to make the most out of your heat press and give you tips and tricks that may make it easier to use your machine.

Not sure which heat press is for you? Check out our e-course Heat Press Roadmap! This extensive course is designed to guide you on your journey to deciding on the best heat press for your needs, space, and budget. Check out all the details about Heat Press Roadmap here!

For this post I’m using my WALApress from Heat Transfer Warehouse (see my review and how to use it here), but these tips and tricks should apply to almost all other flat heat presses, as well as some specialty presses like mug presses or tumbler presses.

Check out my favorite presses on Amazon using my heat press shopping list!

Watch the Video

Check out my heat press hacks over on my YouTube channel!

Testing the Pressure of Your Heat Press

If you have a heat press that does not have a built in pressure gauge, you may be wondering how to know the difference between light, medium, and heavy pressure. My favorite way is to use a sheet of paper.

Place the sheet of paper halfway in the press and close. Then adjust the knob for these different pressures:

Light pressure: When you pull on the paper, you’ll get a little resistance but you should be able to pull it out.

Medium pressure: You shouldn’t be able to pull the paper out, but you should still be able to close the press without a lot of effort.

Heavy pressure: Turn the knob on your heat press to the point where you can’t close your machine all the way. Then lessen the pressure bit by bit until you can close it. It should require a bit of effort to close.

Lubricating Your Heat Press

Squeaky heat press? You probably need to oil the hinge! Use a premium grade lubricant and carefully spray it onto the hinge where it’s squeaking. Open and close the press several times to help move the oil around the hinge. Be careful not to over-lubricate your hinge—you don’t want that grease to drip onto any of your heat press projects.

Check the Temperature of Your Heat Press

If you’re getting unexpected results out of your heat press (like your blank seems a bit scorched or your HTV isn’t sticking properly), you may want to check the temperature of your press. An infrared heat thermometer can help you check! Instead of aiming the heat gun at the plate of your press, set your heat press to a certain temperature and then close the press for 5 minutes. This will warm up the bottom pad on the press. When you open the press, immediately point the infrared heat thermometer at the bottom pad and take a reading. This is more accurate than the actual plate!

If your temperature is off, there are a few things you can do…

Calibrating Your Heat Press Temperature

You have a couple options here depending on your heat press.

Internal Calibration: For some higher end heat presses, there is a mode where you can calibrate your temperature. So if your machine is off by 10°, (it should be 300° but it’s actually 310°, for example), you can use the calibration setting to adjust the temperature. That way it will read 300° and it will be 300°, just like it should.

Manual Calibration: If you don’t have any calibration within your heat press, you can write down common temperatures in a notebook so you have them to refer to instead of having to remember to do that math. If your press is 10° off, then your notebook might look like:

• 300° – Set to 290°
• 325° – Set to 315°
• 400° – Set to 390°

HTV Warming Trick

Here’s a fun one! Did you know you can use your heat press to make HTV weeding easier? Set heat press to 315° at 15 seconds. Close your empty press for that 15 seconds, and then place the project you want to weed onto the warm bottom platen of your heat press. It makes pulling up that excess HTV much easier! You may need to adjust your temperature a bit depending on how well your bottom platen holds that heat.

You can also buy an EZ Weeding Table which warms, but it’s not cheap! Then again…if it saves you enough time in your small HTV business, it may be a good investment!

Teflon Sheet vs. Butcher Paper vs. Parchment Paper vs. Wax Paper

There are so many ways to protect your heat press, but they all act a bit differently. Let’s look at when you might want to use each.

Teflon Sheet: A teflon sheet is the best for using HTV in your heat press, protecting it from excess residue or adhesives. I don’t recommend using teflon for sublimation projects, however. Teflon can trap moisture, which can cause issues with your sublimation transfer. Additionally, sublimation ink can blow or bleed through your transfer and onto the Teflon sheet, causing it to ghost images on future projects.

Butcher Paper: Butcher paper is better for sublimation projects. Butcher paper is basically uncoated paper that protects your press from sublimation ink. I like buying butcher paper in sheets because they are so much easier to work with than having to cut pieces off a butcher paper roll.

Parchment Paper: Parchment paper is a specialty paper with a silicone coating, making it very non-stick. I don’t generally use it for pressing my projects, because it can trap moisture as well. I do use it, however, for helping me place both HTV and adhesive vinyl decals on my blanks. You can place the parchment paper between your decal and your blank so you can move it around until you have perfect placement. Then tape down your transfer and remove the parchment paper and adhere.

Wax Paper: Overall, stay away from wax paper for heat press crafting. If you heat wax paper, it can melt the wax onto your projects—not good!

Platen Cover

Speaking of teflon, you can buy a teflon cover for the top platen of your heat press so you don’t need to put the teflon sheet over your project every single time! It’s a lifesaver when you’re making a ton of HTV projects using your heat press. You can even make your own by taking a large teflon sheet and using magnets to hold it in place.

Reusing Butcher Paper

You can totally reuse butcher paper in your sublimation projects. Just hold it up to the light before you use one. If you see any ink at all on your butcher paper, it’s time for the recycling bin. That ink can ghost images on your blanks. But if the sheet looks clean, go ahead and use it as many times as you want!

Pressing Pillows

Use a pressing pillow for soft blanks and garments with zippers, buttons, seams, and pockets. Place the pillow inside your blank to raise the pressing surface above the troublesome parts of the blank in order to achieve an even press. For example, the seams in a kid’s bodysuit can get in the way of a totally flat sublimation print. By inserting a pressing pillow, you can raise the pressing surface above the seams.

You can also use an EasyPress mat or other white items (white ensures you won’t have any color bleed), such as a folded washcloth, hand towel, or even a cloth diaper. Cotton quilt batting often works as well and is easy to trim down to the size you need.

Avoiding Zippers, Buttons, and Other Problem Areas

A pressing pillow can help you raise up that pressing surface, but you can also just hang zippers or buttons off the side of your press. For instance, if you’re pressing a zippered pouch, add your decal to the pouch and let the entire zipper hang off the side of the press. You’ll get a really flat press and you won’t have to worry about melting a nylon zipper.

Bath after Pressing

Finally, you can cool off sublimation projects more quickly when the come out of the press by giving them a bath! Set aside a bowl of room temperature water (for ceramic blanks) or ice water (for metal blanks) and just dunk them into the water after you pull them out of the press. The cooler water quickly stops the sublimation process so your images are super crisp, and you are able to remove the butcher paper and image more quickly than if they just cooled down slowly on a heat-resistant map.

Note that you do want to take off any shrink wrap from your project before you dunk them—removing shrink wrap after it’s cooled is much more difficult than removing it when it’s hot.!

For more Heat Press information, check out my blog on How to Use a Heat Press!

The post 10 Heat Press Hacks You Need to Know! appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

My craft room recently got an upgrade! My old Amazon 5-in-1 heat press bit the dust (it literally wouldn’t turn on), so I replaced it with a WALApress from Heat Transfer Warehouse. This 15″ x 15″ clamshell press is a great upgrade to my first heat press.

I’ll be using this new press to teach you how to use a heat press! Of course all heat presses are different, but they function very similarly, so even if you have a different brand, you should be able to start on the right foot after reading this post. The instructions that come with many heat presses can feel a bit…basic, but I’ve got you covered!

I’ll also share a full review of this particular heat press later in this post, just in case you want to put a WALApress on your wishlist.

Not sure which heat press is for you? Check out our e-course Heat Press Roadmap! This extensive course is designed to guide you on your journey to deciding on the best heat press for your needs, space, and budget. Check out all the details about Heat Press Roadmap here!

How to Use a Heat Press Video

Watch this video as I go through everything in this post!

What is a Heat Press?

Check out my favorite heat presses you can get on Amazon!

A heat press is a machine that uses high heat to apply different materials to a variety of surfaces (fabric, wood, metal, etc.) for a wide range of results. For example, a heat press can be used to adhere heat transfer vinyl (HTV) cut on a cutting machine like a Cricut or Silhouette to a cotton t-shirt, or to put a sublimation transfer on a poly-coated substrate or polyester garment.

Heat presses come in all shapes and sizes depending on the project. In this post, we’re talking about flat heat presses used for items such as clothing, tote bags, coasters, photo panels, and more. There is also the Cricut AutoPress, which is Cricut’s flat heat press. You can read my full AutoPress review here.

There are also additional attachments or standalone heat presses you can purchase for mugs, tumblers, hats, and other oddly shaped items. You can check out a few of my other posts here:

• Cricut Mug Press
• Cricut Hat Press
• Tumbler Press

Additionally, Cricut makes a handheld heat press called the Cricut EasyPress. You can read my comparison between the EasyPress and a traditional heat press to learn more about the differences between those two types of flat press.

Yes, there are a LOT of types of heat presses! And I have a lot of them.

Setting Up Your Space

First and foremost, you’ll want to make sure you have plenty of space set aside for your heat press machine. Depending on the style of your heat press (see the next section), you may need space on either side of your press for swinging it open, or space above for opening that top platen. Heat presses are HEAVY, so be sure you have a solid table or work surface. The last thing you want is a 400° 50+lb press to come crashing to the floor.

I have mine sitting on an IKEA desk I made using two Alex drawer units and a table top.

Most heat presses come fully or near-fully assembled. Because a heat press is so heavy, it might be a good idea to have a second set of hands to get it out of the box.

Heat Press Features

Clamshell vs. Swing Away

There are two main types of heat press design: clamshell and swing-away. My old Amazon 5-in-1 press was a swing-away. On a swing-away press, the top platen stays flat and is swung to the right or left so you can put your project down on the bottom plate. It can actually swing all the way around so the hot platen is totally away from your project. This is great, but you do need significantly more room to swing that platen all the way around, so it’s less than ideal for small spaces. Additionally, you can press thicker projects (like heat-transfer vinyl on a wood sign) with a swing away because the top plate comes down flat on top of your project.

My new WALApress is a clamshell. This means it opens and closes, well, like a clamshell. The top platen opens at an angle and you place your project on the bottom plate. This takes up much less room than a swing-away, but you do need to be more cautious of the hot plate being near your project. My WALApress has a slide-out bottom plate, which makes it a lot easier to avoid that hot plate. Doing thicker projects can be a bit tricky because of the angle of the top platen when it presses down. This may or may not matter to you depending on what types of projects you do.

The Cricut AutoPress is sort of a hybrid of these two types of presses. It opens more like a clamshell but the hinge is designed so the top platen comes down flat like a swing-away press. It’s pretty nifty (but, of course, nifty comes with a much heftier price tag).

The Parts of a Heat Press

Most flat heat presses have all the same features. There is a top platen (sometimes called a plate) that is heated, and a bottom platen that is not heated. Depending on your press, that bottom platen may slide out for easy access. The bottom platen usually has a foam or rubber pad on it.

There is also a handle for closing the press, as well as a knob for adjusting the pressure (the AutoPress does not have this knob because it applies pressure automatically). There is control box for setting time and temperature, and a sturdy base that all of this sits on. And a power button for turning the whole thing on and off.

Most presses will have a safety auto-off feature that will turn the press off if you haven’t interacted with it in a while.

Use Caution

Note that parts of the heat press will get very hot, including the outside casing around that top platen, and the bottom platen after you’ve pressed something. Most heat press projects start around 315° and go up to 400° and you do NOT want to be on the receiving end of that heat. This also includes children! Using a heat press can be dangerous for anyone who is not careful. A heat press also takes a long time to cool down, so be aware of that as well.

How to Use a Heat Press Step by Step

Once you’ve familiarized yourself with your heat press, you’re probably ready to create a project!

Finding Recommended Time, Temperature, and Pressure Settings

To start your project, determine the heat time, temperature, and pressure recommendations.

If you are using a type of heat-transfer vinyl (HTV, DTV, printable iron on, etc.), your time, temperature, and pressure settings are based on your material. So keep your packaging! If you don’t have packaging, you can usually look up the manufacturer of the material online and they should have recommended settings.

If you are using sublimation, your time, temperature, and pressure settings are based on the blank. So pressing a polyester shirt will be different than a sublimation photo panel which is different than a sequined pillow case. The manufacturer of these blanks should give you the recommended settings.

If you’re using another process, like DTF or EcoSolvent, I’ll have you refer to someone else for instructions since I am not very familiar with these other types of projects.

Setting Your Pressure

Before you press your blank, you will want to ensure the pressure is correct. Generally the pressure should be listed with the other recommended settings. On most presses, you just have to go by feel (the Cricut AutoPress, however, adjusts the pressure automatically). To add more pressure, turn your pressure knob to the right. To remove pressure, turn it to the left. You may need to adjust it a few times to get it just right.

If your blank calls for heavy pressure, you’ll want the handle to be a little tough to clamp down fully. If it calls for light pressure, it should be pretty easy to close. Medium pressure? Well, somewhere between the two. I like to open and close my heat press a few times to double check pressure before adding a blank.

Setting Your Time and Temperature

Now let’s see how to actually adjust the settings. Turn on your heat press. Control boxes for each press will be a bit different, but there are usually three main settings:

• Time
• Temperature
• Fahrenheit vs. Celsius

Generally there is a SET or MODE button to get you to the first setting. On my press, the first setting is labeled P-1 and it’s the temperature. Use the arrow keys to set the temperature.

Then hit the SET or MODE button again to get to the next setting. Mine is labeled P-2 and it’s the time. Use the arrow keys to set the time in seconds.

If that’s all you need to set, you can hit the SET or MODE button until you get back to the main screen. On mine, there’s also P-3 for changing between Fahrenheit and Celsius, and P-4, which helps you calibrate temperature difference by increasing or decreasing the readout. You would test this by putting aiming a thermometer gun at the hot platen in several places to see if the readout is what your temperature says it is. If not, you can add or subtract degrees to the temperature readout so it’s more accurate.

Other heat presses may have a different process for changing the settings, so when in doubt, refer to the user manual.

Testing Your Settings

Note that recommended settings are just that—recommended. You may need to adjust the settings a bit to get a better press. This is where testing comes in. If possible, test your materials or prints before doing your final press on your blank. Start with the recommended settings and go from there. For example, if your HTV isn’t sticking all the way, press for a bit longer. If your sublimation prints are coming out faded, try increasing your temperature. You can use a temperature gun to make sure the temperature shown in the controls is the same.

There are a lot of variables that go into your projects, including your material, your blank, the temperature and humidity in your space, and whether or not Mercury is in retrograde (okay, not really, but sometimes it feels that way!). Knowing that recommendations are just a starting place can help you find the best time, temperature, and pressure settings even faster.

Creating Your Project!

Now that your time, temperature, and pressure settings are all set, you can create a project! These photos are of a simple HTV baby bodysuit using my WALApress, but like I’ve mentioned, there are lots of things you can do! You can grab the free narwhal SVG we’re using here:

Open your heat press and lay your bodysuit flat on the lower platen.

Use a lint roller to remove any dust, pet hair, or other debris from your garment.

Pre-press your blank for 10 to 15 seconds to release moisture and/or wrinkles before adding your image decal on top.

Once ready, place your material (heat transfer vinyl, sublimation transfer paper, inkjet transfer, etc.) on top of the blank. In many cases, you may also want to use a teflon sheet or piece of butcher paper between the top heat plate and your blank.

Then, using your handle, carefully close the upper platen and press the start button on your machine. Depending on your machine, the countdown will start automatically, or you may need to press a button to start it. Once the machine is closed, avoid re-opening your project until it’s done.

Once the timer beeps, use the handle to open your heat press. It will be hot, so be careful!

Depending on your material, you may need to wait for your project to cool a bit before peeling away the backing or carrier sheet. Read my post HTV: Hot Peel vs Cold Peel for more information.

Depending on the recommended instructions for your project, you may also want to press from the back to make sure your material is really adhered to your blank properly.

Your project is done!

WALApress Review

Now let’s talk about my specific WALApress heat press and whether or not I’d recommend it! Like I said at the beginning of this post, I upgraded to this press after my 5-in-1 heat press from Amazon died. My main reasons for upgrading were a larger pressing surface (15″ x 15″ vs. 12″ x 15″), a smaller footprint (clamshell vs. swing-away), and the customer service provided by Heat Transfer Warehouse just in case my press died at some point like my Amazon press did.

The price difference was significant, though, with the Amazon press being around $200 and the WALApress around $575.

I’ve been using the WALApress for more than a month now and I really love it. Yes, it’s more expensive than my Amazon press but I do think the upgrade was worth it for me. I like how much more sturdy this press feels than than the 5-in-1 press. I really love the pull-out drawer for getting my projects set up, though I will be honest and say that twice now I’ve tried to close the press before sliding the drawer back in since I am not used to that part of the process. It made the press feel a bit off balance, which was a bit scary. But that’s just my own user error—just be sure to push the drawer back in.

With the increased size for Cricut Print then Cut, I am looking forward to doing larger sublimation projects and the larger platen will allow me to do that. And even with that increased size, the amount of space I need to use my press is actually smaller than it was with my swing-away Amazon press.

Frequently Asked Questions about Heat Presses

Print

How to Use a Heat Press

Got a new heat press? I'm breaking down everything you need to know about using it, including all of the parts of a heat press, finding your time, temperature, and pressure settings, and making your first project.

Keyword Heat Press

Author Cori George

Ingredients

• Free Narwhal File #C466

Instructions

• Finding Recommended Time, Temperature, and Pressure Settings

  Once you've familiarized yourself with your heat press, you're probably ready to create a project!

  To start your project, determine the heat time, temperature, and pressure recommendations.

  If you are using a type of heat-transfer vinyl (HTV, DTV, printable iron on, etc.), your time, temperature, and pressure settings are based on your material. So keep your packaging! If you don't have packaging, you can usually look up the manufacturer of the material online and they should have recommended settings.

  If you are using sublimation, your time, temperature, and pressure settings are based on the blank. So pressing a polyester shirt will be different than a sublimation photo panel which is different than a sequined pillow case. The manufacturer of these blanks should give you the recommended settings.

  If you're using another process, like DTF or EcoSolvent, please refer to someone else for instructions since not very familiar with these other types of projects.
• Setting Your Pressure

  Before you press your blank, you will want to ensure the pressure is correct. Generally the pressure should be listed with the other recommended settings. On most presses, you just have to go by feel (the Cricut AutoPress, however, adjusts the pressure automatically). To add more pressure, turn your pressure knob to the right. To remove pressure, turn it to the left. You may need to adjust it a few times to get it just right.

  If your blank calls for heavy pressure, you'll want the handle to be a little tough to clamp down fully. If it calls for light pressure, it should be pretty easy to close. Medium pressure? Well, somewhere between the two. It is recommended to open and close your heat press a few times to double check pressure before adding a blank.
  
• Setting Your Time and Temperature

  Now let's see how to actually adjust the settings. Turn on your heat press. Control boxes for each press will be a bit different, but there are usually three main settings:

  Time

  Temperature

  Fahrenheit vs. Celsius

  Generally there is a SET or MODE button to get you to the first setting. On the WALApress being used for this project, the first setting is labeled P-1 and it's the temperature. Use the arrow keys to set the temperature.
  
• Then hit the SET or MODE button again to get to the next setting. The WALApress is labeled P-2 and it's the time. Use the arrow keys to set the time in seconds.

  If that's all you need to set, you can hit the SET or MODE button until you get back to the main screen. On the WALApress, there's also P-3 for changing between Fahrenheit and Celsius, and P-4, which helps you calibrate temperature difference by increasing or decreasing the readout. You would test this by aiming a thermometer gun at the hot platen in several places to see if the readout is what your temperature says it is. If not, you can add or subtract degrees to the temperature readout so it's more accurate.

  Other heat presses may have a different process for changing the settings, so when in doubt, refer to the user manual.
  
• Testing Your Settings

  Note that recommended settings are just that—recommended. You may need to adjust the settings a bit to get a better press. This is where testing comes in. If possible, test your materials or prints before doing your final press on your blank. Start with the recommended settings and go from there. For example, if your HTV isn't sticking all the way, press for a bit longer. If your sublimation prints are coming out faded, try increasing your temperature. You can use a temperature gun to make sure the temperature shown in the controls is the same.

  There are a lot of variables that go into your projects, including your material, your blank, the temperature and humidity in your space, and whether or not Mercury is in retrograde (okay, not really, but sometimes it feels that way!). Knowing that recommendations are just a starting place can help you find the best time, temperature, and pressure settings even faster.
• Creating Your Project!

  Now that your time, temperature, and pressure settings are all set, you can create a project! These photos are of a simple HTV baby bodysuit using my WALApress, but like I've mentioned, there are lots of things you can do! You can grab the free narwhal SVG we're using under the Supply List.

  Open your heat press and lay your bodysuit flat on the lower platen.
  
• Use a lint roller to remove any dust, pet hair, or other debris from your garment.
  
• Pre-press your blank for 10 to 15 seconds to release moisture and/or wrinkles before adding your image decal on top.

  Once ready, place your material (heat transfer vinyl, sublimation transfer paper, inkjet transfer, etc.) on top of the blank. In many cases, you may also want to use a teflon sheet or piece of butcher paper between the top heat plate and your blank.
  
• Then, using your handle, carefully close the upper platen and press the start button on your machine. Depending on your machine, the countdown will start automatically, or you may need to press a button to start it. Once the machine is closed, avoid re-opening your project until it's done.
  
• Once the timer beeps, use the handle to open your heat press. It will be hot, so be careful!

  Depending on your material, you may need to wait for your project to cool a bit before peeling away the backing or carrier sheet. Read this post HTV: Hot Peel vs Cold Peel for more information.

  Depending on the recommended instructions for your project, you may also want to press from the back to make sure your material is really adhered to your blank properly.

  Your project is done!
  

The post How to Use a Heat Press appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.

My boys are HUGE into Perler beads (other brands include Hama beads and Nabbi beads). I actually ran across a Facebook post from the very beginning of the pandemic when I said one of my boys had assembled their first Perler bead project on their own, without mom or dad’s help.

Ahh, corona-humor. It was a TIME.

Since then, they’ve made hundreds of Perler bead projects. We’re on our third giant bucket of Perler beads. It’s a Perler bead creation station around here!

When they learned they didn’t have to stick to the shape of the Perler pegboard, their creativity went wild. We have tiny vehicles and buildings and animals all over our house. Once they even made little 2×2 perler bead saltine crackers for their perler bead beaver who, apparently, loves saltine crackers. Kids are great.

All of this means that I am in a near-constant state of ironing perler beads.

Early on, I put away my old household iron and broke out my EasyPress Mini. GAME. CHANGER. Using my EasyPress Mini to fuse Perler beads was a stroke of genius. If you aren’t familiar with the EasyPress mini, check out my post What is the Cricut EasyPress Mini?.

What is the Best Way to Fuse Perler Beads?

I’ve tried several ways to fuse Perler beads. A regular household electric iron, the larger EasyPress, and the EasyPress Mini. The EasyPress Mini, is, hands down, the best of the three options.

Here are a few reasons why I love the EasyPress Mini for Perler beads:

• The heating on the EasyPress Mini plate is even, and it’s much harder to “over-melt” the Perler beads. My iron is significantly hotter in the center of the plate than around the edges, and I found it hard to get an even press.
• The large EasyPress was actually the worst of the three options. You would think you could just set it down on the project and then pick it right back up, but no matter how carefully I tried it, it always ended up fusing one side more than the other. Just the slightest tilt in the press causes a lot of pressing issues.
• The EasyPress Mini is small, which means you can easily see what you are doing as you iron. There aren’t big parts of your project covered by the plate while you’re ironing.
• It’s easy to store—I actually just tuck it behind a house plant on our counter when I’m not using it. Much easier to hide than my iron or EasyPress. There just wasn’t enough space for my iron!

Tips for Melting Perler Beads

Here are a few of my own tips for fusing Perler beads with an EasyPress Mini. There’s a whole world of advanced Perler bead projects out there, but these are my best tips from a mom who has fused more Perler bead trays than she can count!

(I use the standard fusing method of parchment paper, though there are other options out there, like the masking tape method. The masking tape method is better for larger projects—minimizes the chance of beads coming unseated in the tray.)

Preheat your EasyPress Mini to the second medium heat setting—it’s about 350°. The low setting also works, it just takes longer. The hot setting is way too hot, unless you like to completely melt and flatten your beads.

Place your peg board and beads on a solid heat-resistant surface. I use my granite kitchen countertop. I tried using a pressing mat (like the EasyPress mat) but it wasn’t sturdy enough. I’m using my old studio worktop here.

Place parchment paper carefully on top of the project. Do not use wax paper—the wax will melt under the iron. If your ironing paper has fold lines or seams, you may want to pre-iron it. Sometimes those seams will show up in the section of the design where you pressed.

If you’d like, you can wear oven mitts or heat-resistant gloves.

Using a circular motion, use the EasyPress Mini to start fusing your beads. I start out with lighter pressure, but once things start fusing I press just a bit harder.

Once you think you’ve fused the beads properly, peel back the parchment paper to see if you’ve hit all the beads. You may need possible additional heating time. Once all the beads are fused, then flip it over and do the same from the back, making sure to use your piece of ironing paper on the back as well.

I like to stick the perler bead project under something heavy before it cools—this keeps it from bending while cooling.

This really is the best way to fuse Perler beads. Hope you found this post helpful if you’ve got a kiddo (or if you yourself!) who loves to craft using them!

Get Perler Beads!

Print

THE BEST WASY TO FUSE PERLER BEADS

The EasyPress mini is the best way to fuse Perler beads! Use the EasyPress Mini instead of an iron to melt Perler beads—it's quick and the small footprint makes it easy to see what you're doing.

Keyword EasyPress Mini, Perler Beads

Author Cori George

Equipment

• EasyPress Mini

Instructions

• Preheat your EasyPress Mini to the second medium heat setting—it's about 350°. The low setting also works, it just takes longer. The hot setting is way too hot, unless you like to completely melt and flatten your beads.
• Place your peg board and beads on a solid heat-resistant surface.
• Place parchment paper carefully on top of the project. Do not use wax paper—the wax will melt under the iron. If your ironing paper has fold lines or seams, you may want to pre-iron it. Sometimes those seams will show up in the section of the design where you pressed.
  
• If you'd like, you can wear oven mitts or heat-resistant gloves.

  Using a circular motion, use the EasyPress Mini to start fusing your beads. Start out with lighter pressure, but once things start fusing press just a bit harder.
  
• Once you think you've fused the beads properly, peel back the parchment paper to see if you've hit all the beads. You may need possible additional heating time. Once all the beads are fused, then flip it over and do the same from the back, making sure to use your piece of ironing paper on the back as well.

  Stick the perler bead project under something heavy before it cools—this keeps it from bending while cooling.
  

The post The Best Way to Fuse Perler Beads—the Cricut EasyPress Mini! appeared first on Hey, Let's Make Stuff.